It is tradition at Eater to end the year with a survey of friends, rovers of the industry, critics and professional eaters. This year, the group were asked eight questions, spanning meal of the year to biggest dining grievance. Their answers will appear throughout this week. Responses are related in no particular order; cut, pasted, and unedited below. Today, we start with something memorable: each writer’s best meal of 2017.
Grace Dent, former ES Magazine — and soon-to-be The Guardian — restaurant critic:
A summit of food critic dicks at Locanda Locatelli. Elegant… Then very messy.
Adam Coghlan, Eater London editor: Marksman and a very special, one-off first dinner at Locanda Locatelli.
George Reynolds, Eater London contributor: Hard to pick from a trio of P Franco (Tim Spedding in January, Will Gleave in July and December) so will take the diplomatic route and say my first dinner at The Laughing Heart. Like a light turning on.
Victoria Stewart, food writer: Rochelle Canteen at the ICA; and Locanda Locatelli.
James Hansen, food writer, editor and Eater London contributor: A gloriously uncomplicated thing: sit down at Noble Rot; order everything off the first section of the menu; be done with the world for two hours.
Emma Hughes, freelance food writer and Eater London contributor: Honestly, it was Sunday roast at Temper Soho. I ate so much that I had to take painkillers when I got home.
Josh Barrie, food writer and Eater London contributor: Kiln.
Suze Olbrich, freelance food writer and Eater London contributor: Top 3 / maybe 5 not in London I’m afraid… If had to pick here, maybe something tiny like Anna Tobias’ cheese toast at P Franco, or really anything there. But I don’t get out enough I fear.
Zeren Wilson, restaurant discoverer and author of Bitten & Written: Black Axe Mangal, over many visits: for the sheer eye widening, smile inducing, ripsnorting originality of the dishes here. Unique, bonkers, inspired – unlike anything else in London right now
Chloe Scott-Moncrieff, food writer and co-founder of the YBFs: Tommy Banks came down to do a single night pop up on Vyner Street that I was blown away by.
Rochelle ICA was so easy and enjoyable, I’d keep going back.
Sophie Brown, freelance food writer: Grilled peaches with guinea fowl parfait and beans at Lyle's.
Felicity Spector, Channel 4 News writer and pastry lover: Outside London - L’Enclume. In London — on my 50th birthday — the veggie tasting menu at The Dairy. Gorgeous.
Laurel Ives, former food editor of The Sunday Times’ The Dish: Kiln - fiery and unforgettable.