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London Writers Share Their Best Meals of 2017

Which restaurants really stood out this year?

Kiln, which was awarded a Bib Gourmand by the Michelin star Michelin Guide in 2018
Claypot noodles with brown crab and Tamworth loin at Kiln
Ola Smit

It is tradition at Eater to end the year with a survey of friends, rovers of the industry, critics and professional eaters. This year, the group were asked eight questions, spanning meal of the year to biggest dining grievance. Their answers will appear throughout this week. Responses are related in no particular order; cut, pasted, and unedited below. Today, we start with something memorable: each writer’s best meal of 2017.

Grace Dent, former ES Magazine — and soon-to-be The Guardian — restaurant critic:
A summit of food critic dicks at Locanda Locatelli. Elegant… Then very messy.

Adam Coghlan, Eater London editor: Marksman and a very special, one-off first dinner at Locanda Locatelli.

George Reynolds, Eater London contributor: Hard to pick from a trio of P Franco (Tim Spedding in January, Will Gleave in July and December) so will take the diplomatic route and say my first dinner at The Laughing Heart. Like a light turning on.

Victoria Stewart, food writer: Rochelle Canteen at the ICA; and Locanda Locatelli.

James Hansen, food writer, editor and Eater London contributor: A gloriously uncomplicated thing: sit down at Noble Rot; order everything off the first section of the menu; be done with the world for two hours.

Emma Hughes, freelance food writer and Eater London contributor: Honestly, it was Sunday roast at Temper Soho. I ate so much that I had to take painkillers when I got home.

William Gleave and Peppe Belvedere at P Franco
Ben McMahon

Josh Barrie, food writer and Eater London contributor: Kiln.

Suze Olbrich, freelance food writer and Eater London contributor: Top 3 / maybe 5 not in London I’m afraid… If had to pick here, maybe something tiny like Anna Tobias’ cheese toast at P Franco, or really anything there. But I don’t get out enough I fear.

Zeren Wilson, restaurant discoverer and author of Bitten & Written: Black Axe Mangal, over many visits: for the sheer eye widening, smile inducing, ripsnorting originality of the dishes here. Unique, bonkers, inspired – unlike anything else in London right now

Chloe Scott-Moncrieff, food writer and co-founder of the YBFs: Tommy Banks came down to do a single night pop up on Vyner Street that I was blown away by.

Rochelle ICA was so easy and enjoyable, I’d keep going back.

Sophie Brown, freelance food writer: Grilled peaches with guinea fowl parfait and beans at Lyle's.

Felicity Spector, Channel 4 News writer and pastry lover: Outside London - L’Enclume. In London — on my 50th birthday — the veggie tasting menu at The Dairy. Gorgeous.

Laurel Ives, former food editor of The Sunday Times’ The Dish: Kiln - fiery and unforgettable.

Rochelle Canteen

16 Playground Gardens, , England E2 7FA 020 3928 8328 Visit Website


1731 New Hampshire Avenue Northwest, , DC 20009 (202) 964-6790 Visit Website

Black Axe Mangal

156 Canonbury Road, , England N1 2UP Visit Website

The Dairy

15 The Pavement, , England SW4 0HY 020 7622 4165 Visit Website


53 Foy Lane, , NSW 2000 (02) 8099 8799 Visit Website

Noble Rot

51 Lamb’s Conduit St, London, Greater London WC1N 3NB +44 20 7242 8963 Visit Website


254 Hackney Rd, London, Greater London E2 7SJ +44 20 7739 7393 Visit Website

P Franco

107 Lower Clapton Road, , England E5 0NP Visit Website

The Laughing Heart

277 Hackney Road, , England E2 8NA 020 7686 9535 Visit Website

Locanda Locatelli

8 Seymour Street, , England W1H 7JZ 020 7935 9088 Visit Website