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Richard Caring’s Caprice Holdings will continue their creeping growth into the London restaurant scene with the opening of Harry’s Dolce Vita Harry's Dolci on 6 December. The announcement, via their website (now taken down) first reported by MCA, confirms the story published by Eater London last month. Situated in Knightsbridge, the continental cousin to J Sheekey, Sexy Fish, The Ivy et al “will offset high octane Italian energy and enthusiasm” with “natural elegance and impeccable heritage,” eschewing the voguish trappings of low octane Brexiteering and culinary illegitimacy.
The restaurant is being overseen by executive head chef, Diego Cardoso, who formerly worked under Angela Hartnett at her Michelin-starred flagship restaurant, Murano in Mayfair and later at Open House’s Percy & Founders. He is joined by general manager, Giancarlo Princigalli.
Opening from early in the morning to late at night, it's clear that Harry's Dolci will not be cuisine-agnostic, offering “every Italian delizia you can imagine” throughout service. Moving into actual descriptive terms, "Seasonal Italian ingredients pepper the food and drinks menus and this versatile kitchen will turn its hand to Italian favourites in every section: aperitivi, antipasti, pizze, paste e risotti, pesce e carne, contorni, dolci (pasticceria, gelato sundaes, bevande, shaved ice granita); and last but not least, the drinks list." What these ingredients will be remains to be seen — the versatile kitchen will hopefully have everything at its disposal to create the aforementioned delizie, catering to even the wildest of imaginations.
The room promises “Colourful Murano glass, silky Fortuny fabrics, vintage brass fixtures and rich tanned leather bar stools, chairs and banquettes,” joining its name in conjuring a uniquely Italian nostalgia — la dolce vita, Fellini, “delicate table lamps,” the works. The backward-looking aesthetic slots Harry's in to The Ivy/J Sheekey lineage, but questions that remain are big ones — who the mysterious Harry actually is, other than another instance of the bizarre marketing fixation on ascribing ownership to restaurants and dishes, and whether Caprice mastermind Caring will be looking to roll out the model into further sites. For now, we'll be contenting ourselves with the thought of Harry's Sweet Treats.