Last month the chef told Eater that he didn’t necessarily feel pressure, despite heightened expectations at a massive new (three-storey) site in one of the wealthiest neighbourhoods in the world. He also said that, unlike the relatively short-lived Dabbous (his first restaurant), he hoped to achieve “Longevity! We want to create somewhere that will, for many years to come, be a popular and progressive destination.”
About his food he said that he had “been very self-critical,” pushing himself to “create a food offering that feels evolved from what I did previously, rather than just more of the same. I was always satisfied with what we produced at Dabbous, but I do think this is better still. Hopefully the customers will agree!”
Eater was given a first look at a selection of the new dishes — here are six of the best from what is evidently one of London’s most ambitious new kitchens.
These glazed lemon cakes, which look like polished marble, feature on the afternoon tea menu, part of the offering at Ground. (Each table in the restaurant has either an H, I, D, or E inset.)
Bread is baked in-house; the basket, which includes a crisp cracker, poppyseed brown, focaccia-style white, baguette and a rye roll, with whipped butter.
Entering Hide, guests are met by an imposing spiral staircase which joins the three component venues — Ground is an all-day restaurant that also houses the bakery.
Starters from the Ground menu are bright, light and very very floral.
Mains, including this barbecued lamb dish, are similarly photogenic, and also lean into horticulture.
Ascending to Above, guests are met by a light-filled dining room, overlooking neighbouring Green Park.
Flowers feature in, and are the inspiration for, desserts.
Petit-fours are inspired by Green Park.
The service kitchen, visible from the dining room of Above yet unobtrusive, is a hive of activity even between services.