London Wants More Avocado Gelato, for Some Reason

Another avocado-imitating dessert is coming to the capital. But first, some history.

In April 2018, London tipped over the edge: the edge of reason. An avocado gelato, or Avolato, complete with superfood nut butter ‘stone’, retailed in Selfridges at £9.50. At-table Instagram kits be damned — this was the apotheosis of trendy food’s ascension into cultural relevance, propelled by an at best dubious view of millennial property anxiety and the ubiquity of avocado toast. All things considered, there seemed to be no need for another avocado.

That’s enough history. The avocado guacalato is here, now, from the same company: Snowflake Luxury Gelato. This time the company is partnering with Cantina Laredo in Covent Garden for one day only: The entirely made-up “National Avocado Day,” which is “observed” on 31 July. Cantina Laredo has avocado previous, having opened a dedicated guacamole bar inside itself last October.

No nut butter here: this time the stone is chocolate and coffee, for this is dessert, not just a hard leaning into contemporary trends. Guests are invited to “watch in awe” as “talented guacomaestros” prepare their dessert. Other emotions may or may not be permitted; toppings most certainly are, including a strawberry and tequila infusion and caramelised grasshoppers. Only a limited number are available.

It must be noted that this wasn’t a new idea in April, let alone now. Paladar in Elephant and Castle serves avocado ice cream refreshingly free of gimmickry. In New York, Empellon, the midtown Manhattan location of Alex Stupak’s trio of Mexican restaurants, serves avocado gelato that looks like an avocado. There, it comes with a “tart, citrusy ice”, and eucalyptus yoghurt. It is, according to Eater NY critic Ryan Sutton, “a five-year-old’s dream of what an avocado might taste like, before actually biting into one and realizing it’s oily, fatty, and overrated.”