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One of Ealing’s Best Restaurants Will Bring the Food of New Delhi to the Broadway

Patri, whose Northfields branch is one of the finest places to eat in the area, will open in 2020

Nawabi seekh kebab on a banana leaf with kachumber at Patri Patri [Official Photo]

Indian restaurant group Patri will open a third site in west London, adding a new opening in Ealing Broadway to its restaurants in Hammersmith and Northfields.

Replacing Italian restaurant La Cantina at 29 Bond Street, just off the main Broadway, this iteration of Patri will focus on the cuisine of New Delhi, where the Northfields branch divides itself between that — with a menu heavily influenced by Mughal cuisine — and the food of Kolkata, in Eastern India, taking it as a terminus from which to stop off at Hakka Chinese and tangra cuisines. On the new menu, “the influence of owner Puneet Wadhwani’s upbringing – whose vegetarian mother married into a non-vegetarian family – is evident throughout, where succulent kebabs and old Delhi meat classics rub shoulders with vegan street food and signature vegetarian dishes based on family recipes.”

At its Northfields restaurant, head chef Govind Singh delivers Mughlai nawabi seekh kebabs that might trouble the gums of the apocryphal toothless Nawab, with both a hum and bristle of cumin and chilli; shahi laal maas whose sauce, deep crimson with mathania chilli, bulwarks hunks of mutton; naan as inflated as a ghee whoopee cushion. There’s a range of of chaats and puris, including Jodhpur’s girlfriend chaat infernal enough to inspire “heard ur boyfriend” memes, and a dal makhani that puts Dishoom’s eulogised version to shame. Indeed, the tag of “artisan street food” — which could induce fear — could do more justice to a restaurant so focussed on balancing pleasure and excellence.

That branch is one of the best restaurants in the Ealing area, whose independents tend to cluster around Northfields and Ealing Common, with Ealing Broadway largely — but not exclusively — a place for chains. With the recently opened Spanish cafe Reineta, natural wine bar Riding Wine Co., and longtime Polish stalwarts Gryf and Sowa, Patri will add to a neighbourhood whose restaurant scene grows ever more interesting, without losing sight of the local communities which it serves.

London

, , England Visit Website

Mother

Battersea Power Station, London, SW11 8AB Visit Website

Reineta

, , England W5 2TD 07760 827713 Visit Website

Riding Wine Co

21 Dickens Yard, , England W5 2TD 020 8840 1189 Visit Website

Dishoom

12 Upper St Martin's Lane, , England WC2H 9FB 020 7420 9320 Visit Website

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