Shoreditch’s Newest Italian Restaurant Is Pretty Extra

Gloria has arrived in Shoreditch. It’s the first London restaurant for Parisian operators Big Mamma, with a second to come on Rathbone Square in Fitzrovia, and it’s promising “kick-ass quality and 100 percent traceability,” as well as cacio e pepe pasta inside a gigantic wheel of cheese.

Open 22 February, Gloria takes over from Red’s True Barbecue, and will seat 160 people over two floors. The ground floor takes cues from the bygone glamour of 1950s - 1970s Capri — pink pinstripe upholstery, and lots of it; plumped cushions; tables draped in starchy whites; gilded gold-tops; ornate lamps with ornate lampshades. All this follows a strikingly yellow exterior with terracotta planters outside, even more flora within. No Shoreditch succulents on show here: it’s old school luxe, with the plants to match.

The basement, meanwhile, will add to London’s late night restaurant scene with a 2am closing time Thursday — Saturday, with velour banquettes, orb-like lighting, and a mirrored ceiling, for maximum self-regard. The menu, meanwhile, reads classical Italian restaurant, but with more of that maximalism: a lasagna, but with 10 (ten) layers; lobster risotto, but a massive one to share at £60 for two; pappardelle dredged in black truffle; tiramisu, profiteroles, and a colossal lemon meringue pie for pudding. There is also a ‘Youporn’ pizza, in apparent tribute to Alberto Suardi, the chef de cuisine. Said pizza is topped with smoked mozzarella, parmesan cream, broccoli, fennel salami, and olives. Scroll to the bottom for the full menu.

Owners Victor Lugger and Tigrane Seydoux are quick to emphasise the pedigree of their team — “young, gutsy, passionate and Italian” — as much as their roster of Italian suppliers, and this new Shoreditch arrival is self-evidently as much about an atmosphere of elegant — to begin with — excess as much as slurping noodles out of a chunky parmesan bowl. Take a look inside the restaurant and its dishes: Gloria — how’s it gonna go down?

Emma Hughes/Eater London

Emma Hughes

Emma Hughes/Eater London