clock menu more-arrow no yes mobile

Filed under:

Spring Has Sprung in London’s Restaurants

The reign of asparagus, morels, and peas has begun

White asparagus spears with morels and egg yolk at the Conduit Conduit [Official Photo]

Welcome back to Insta Stories, a column examining the London restaurant scene through the often-problematic medium of Instagram. This week’s filter is blooming unlikely.

News of the week

Cheering scenes on the feed this weekend, as ‘grammers took to the platform to commemorate Mother’s Day. Tributes were sweetly heartfelt and there wasn’t even much bandwagon-hopping from Insta-thirsty brands — clearing the way for a surprisingly wholesome celebration of motherhood in all its forms. Social media users banding together to generate tender, unstintingly positive content? It’ll never catch on.

Expedient of the week

One especially heartwarming addition to the roster of celebrants came courtesy of Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs power couple James Knappett and Sandia Chang. Could a fiery homemade laap muang be responsible?

Stars of the week

Also celebrating this week was Bloomberg food impresario Richard Vines, whose birthday at Ekte featured at least one celebrity cameo — and shoes that were far more than simply red.

View this post on Instagram

Happy birthday to @richard.vines and his fabulous shoes

A post shared by Neil Rankin (@frontlinechef) on

Possible harbinger of the week

The launch of the Michelin Guide is often accompanied by consternation on behalf of expectant restaurants snubbed of a shiny star. Among perennial unfortunates like Clapham’s The Dairy was Lee Westcott’s Typing Room, which closed last year without ever receiving what some felt was richly deserved recognition from Bibendum and friends. Could a first since the glory days of Nuno Mendes’ Viajante finally be on the way to Bethnal Green Town Hall Hotel?

Food-adjacent soft furnishings of the week

God tier: Suckling pig, chicken drumstick.

Acceptable verisimilitude tier: Prawn, sausage

Not in my house tier: Leg of ham, rosemary-garnished chicken breast (?), fish.

Scream emoji tier: Unidentifiable flesh lumps

Glut of the week

After the trials and tribulations of winter, working as a chef at this time of year must be an absolute joy. Select a protein from lamb, sweetbreads, crab, or some sort of mild milky cheese, combine with some aggressively seasonal produce, and finish with mint or wild garlic flowers, if required. Extra points for asparagus in its brevity, peas in their pods, and morels, because they’re fancy.

Dish of the week

Random peak spring dish generator: success.

Shot of the week

Anti-gravity viennoiserie!

View this post on Instagram

Love it @freshmikeeats #riskybusiness

A post shared by P O P H A M S (@pophamsbakery) on

Typing Room

Town Hall Hotel, Patriot Square, London, E2 9NF Visit Website

The Dairy

15 The Pavement, , England SW4 0HY 020 7622 4165 Visit Website


81 Fulham Rd, London, Greater London SW3 6RD +44 20 7590 1189 Visit Website

Kitchen Table

70 Charlotte Street, , England W1T 4QG Visit Website


70 Charlotte Street, , England W1T 4QG 020 7637 7770 Visit Website