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Netflix Star Samin Nosrat’s ‘Favourite Restaurant in the World’ Is a London Treasure

A cookbook challenge is sweeping Instagram, and more dispatches from food’s favourite social media platform

Samin Nosrat, Salt Fat Acid Heat star, says her favourite restaurant in the world is in London Netflix

Welcome back to Insta Stories, a column examining the London restaurant scene through the often-problematic medium of Instagram. This week’s filter is B-A-N-A-N-A-S.

News of the week

The announcement that Jamie Oliver will close all but a handful of his restaurants met with a flurry of responses from extremely online people this week — not all of them positive. On Instagram, though, things were a little more measured, and a little more celebratory, acknowledging the chef’s influence in developing a generation of cooks — both at home and in his restaurants. Sure, the tagliatelle with black truffle and the lobster mezzaluna at Jamie’s Italian may not have passed critical muster in recent times, but the very fact that a country could go from embracing these dishes to turning its collective nose up at inferior executions in a matter of years shows how significant Oliver’s impact has been. It’s nice to see that there’s space for the heartfelt and the genuine at times like these.

Wholesome internet craze of the week

Post-Momo (not that one, or this one, but this one), stuff doing the rounds on the internet has developed a fairly toxic reputation. So three cheers for the hashtag #7favouritecookbooks, which encourages Instagrammers to share their best-loved and most influential tomes, and provides a fascinating insight into the books and cooks that make other cooks tick. Anyone leaving The Very Hungry Caterpillar out of their list needs to take a long hard look at themselves.

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@marthadelacey nominated me for #7favouritecookbooks and because I’m lazy I’m doing it late and all at once. Chez Panisse Fruit Book: I want to buy a second copy of this just to cut out and frame the illustrations. Ever inspiring, a legacy to aim for. The Last Course: the year I spent Gramercy Tavern was super influential. I made a group of phenomenal pastry friends and it was the first kitchen I had worked in where I saw chefs get overexcited by fruit. One day I’d love to write a British version. How to Eat a Peach: I read this in one go. I love @dianahenryfood’s writing. It makes me want to cook and travel and eat and write. It also reminds me of my @calamity_alex and my @ceryseluned Fancy Desserts: I read this whenever I feel a bit stuck. I ate Brooks desserts at Del Posto and thought they were delicious. I constantly drool over the gelato @superiorityburger. Salt Fat Acid Heat: I’ve bought about 10 copies of this book for people. It is beyond excellent. I think everyone should learn to cook from this. Plus @ciaosamin just seems like the most wonderful person. Feast: my first, my last. I’ve cooked from this book more than any. The Guinness cake was my gateway into pastry. An Everlasting Meal: seminal. Should be taught in school if you ask me. “If you want to build a ship, don’t drum up people to collect wood, and don’t assign them tasks and work, but rather teach them to long for the endless immensity of the sea.”

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Dinner of the week

To Rochelle Canteen, for a dinner celebrating Samin Nosrat and attended by a host of other industry faves. Nigella Lawson! Diana Henry! The Hendersons! Meera Sodha! Claire Ptak! Sorry, Ellen Oscars selfie — there’s a culinary contender in town.

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Madeleine does it again.

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Accessory of the week

One for the Donnie Darko heads?

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Oh FFS

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Condiment hue of the week

One for the Austin Powers heads?

Check-in on burgeoning trend of the week

Yep, still a thing.

Week of the week

It’s a testament to @londoneater’s prowess that his own home-cooked dishes can stand up to fare from two of West London’s hottest new tickets and one of Paris’ most beloved three-star joints. Although does a hungover weekend cheese toastie chez London Eater mean Cathedral City and Tabasco on Warburton’s, or Delice de Bourgogne and piment d’Espelette on Poilâne?

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L’Arpège Paris, May 2019. Aiguillettes de homard breton bleu nuit au Cotes du Jura. ALC, half portion. Swipe Today with Spring cabbage, new potato and yellow round courgette. Quartered lengthwise, each “aiguillette” plated facing opposite directions. Everything edible makes it on the plate- tail, tomalley and claw. This dish is always served on a heavy plate that is piping hot, including the sauce taken to the highest temperature, frothed up to a lightened texture. It remains the greatest preparation of lobster I’ve ever tasted. The vin jaune sauce, like all sauces at L’Arpège, is simply the finest. The gastrique is perfect, the salt and acidity, the oxidative nuttiness of the wine, all these elements pulling and pushing to create harmony and tension with the lobster flesh, and especially the richness of the tomalley. Put simply, I have not tasted a better sauce than this. Today Tony has blended in some coral, yielding a light orange pigment and an added layer of ocean sweetness to the sauce. The Chausey island lobster – tied rostrum to tail to keep the tail straight during its boil– is usually timed to mi-cuit, however on this visit, the tail was quite firm, and to my taste a touch over, by a minute perhaps. Slightly bigger lobster, looks around 1kg mark. Its massive claw and knuckle on the other hand came out just right. Saying this, the bounce on the meat was a sign of a healthy crustacean and didn’t detract from the overall experience. I’ve had this a few times now and remain perpetually in awe of it. A dish of timeless magnificence. Epic! #oadtop100 #world50best #threemichelinstars #lefooding @alain_passard #larpege #homardbleu #homardbleudebretagne #lobster #europeanlobster #vinjaunesauce #printemps

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Dish of the week

Bao down.

Shot of the week

#Paris-Blessed.

Momo

25 Heddon St, London, Greater London W1B 4BH +44 20 7434 4040 Visit Website

Poilâne

46 Elizabeth Street, , England SW1W 9PA 020 7808 4910 Visit Website

Rochelle Canteen

16 Playground Gardens, , England E2 7FA 020 3928 8328 Visit Website

BAO

590 Valencia Street, , CA 94110 (415) 658-7453 Visit Website

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