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London’s Pastry Game Is Stronger Than Ever

Soon-to-open Flor in Borough Market is up against a strong field in the croissants and more department

by George Reynolds
Best London croissants at Flor in Borough Market Per-Anders Jorgensen/for Flor

Welcome back to Insta Stories, a column examining the London restaurant scene through the often-problematic medium of Instagram. This week’s filter is yes, absolutely.

Feed-clogging event of the week

Like the 2019 Cricket World Cup currently gracing U.K. shores, this year’s Taste of London put some early concerns about the weather to bed to give the people exactly what they wanted over the weekend. Also like the Cricket World Cup, it saw Sri Lanka spring an upset, with Soho favourite Hoppers taking the official best in show gong over last year’s Insta-iconic katsu sando. Unlike the Cricket World Cup, Italians also featured prominently, with Francesco Mazzei’s truffled cacio pepe making a convincing run for ‘most Instagrammed’ honours.

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Almost 4000 Goat Shoulder Rotis later, it's a wrap @tasteoflondon Summer 2019! Here's a snapshot of what went into creating the Best Dish at Taste of London: We had James from @cabritogoatmeat butcher 75 shoulders in our kitchen all day Monday. We then prepped and marinated them in our kitchens but realising that we'd never have enough oven time at our restaurants took them over to cook all night, every night, all week @quovadissoho where we couldn't have asked for warmer hospitality from my dear friend @jeremyleeqv and his incredible team. Similarly I had @abbaslalljee from @reachfoodservice personally pick and drop off the sexiest crabs I've seen in London, which I got to cook over live fire with @djbbq (one of the sexiest men at the festival) and friends. There were more volunteers at the pit than I had jobs to delegate! *** This, for me, is what makes Taste of London one of my favourite weeks of the year. It's not just because of the adrenaline and incredible food and drink on offer, but because of the amazing people from the trade coming together as one to do what we love. Feeding people. There are no competitors or foes, it's just one big super fun party all week long. *** Thank you @renjithsarathchandran @chef_ajayb @rachael.daniels @mrmobberley @marcuscobden_ @chloecinam0n @kiansamyani @chefjitin and the rest of our amazing teams @hopperslondon and @jks_restaurants Great to see you @clerkenwellboyec1 @richard.vines @joe_warwick_ @frenchiecoventgarden @pierre.koffmann @lechefpaski @chef_francescomazzei @ravneeteats @tata_eatery @julian_d_brown @simonthebutch @thebearbq @skeppshultuk @indianaccent @girish.gopalakrishnan @chefjoshkatz @peteypie46 @irgwood @allthingsmeaty @ks_ate_here @chicknsours @top_london_restaurants @ottolenghi @dominiqueansel @smokestakuk

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Raised game of the week

The unveiling of Borough Market newcomer Flor — via a superlative-looking pastry selection — would have sent shockwaves through London’s Instagram scene as recently as a couple of years ago. These days, though, the capital is spoilt for choice. Incumbents like Little Duck The Picklery, The Dusty Knuckle, and Jolene — not to mention hype-magnet Pophams — have done more than enough to show that Flor won’t take hearts and minds and waistlines without a fight. And if a new arrival on the scene causes London’s top bakeries to up the ante even further? Well, no right-minded carbophile could possibly have cause for complaint.

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#

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Apricot pies & creme fraiche on tonight’s pudding menu.

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Instagram vs reality of the week

The guy she told you not to worry about versus you.

Accessory of the week

From domestic cooks to professionals, from fresh to dried, and everywhere in between, it’s been a big seven days for... Fish eggs.

Pairing of the week

When one of Instagram’s most trend-setting culinary forces — creator of legendary (but also… not good?) dishes like #thestew — comes to town, it’s always interesting to see which hotspots they tick off their #list. On reflection, Stoke Newington darling Jolene is the perfect match for Alison Roman’s homely but elevated style of nothing fancy food – we’ll all be cooking #theeggs (with jamón and potatoes) any day now.

Uncanny resemblance of the week

10/10 commitment to verisimilitude with the poppy seeds.

Memeable fruit of the week

A simple ‘same’ would also suffice.

Lovecraftian suspensions of the week

Loving the look of these stills from the upcoming YouTube series, Cooking With Cthulu.

Dish of the week

Goodness. Gracious.

Shot of the week

Decent dinner for two.

Spring

Lancaster Place, , England WC2R 1LA 020 3011 0115 Visit Website

Borough Market

8 Southwark Street, , England SE1 1TL 020 7407 1002 Visit Website

Hoppers

77 Wigmore Street, London, W1U 1QE Visit Website

Jolene

54 Great Jones Street, Manhattan, NY 10012 Visit Website

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