The Man Known as Foodgod Declares a Famous London Food Hall ‘Dead’

170 years of history, but Harrods should just give up now

Harrods has been open at its current address for 170 years — it has seen London change and flex, through wars, through governments, as millions of hungry shoppers pour into its food halls. It has recently revamped said food hall and environs for a reported £200 million, opening the only branded restaurant with a Michelin-starred restaurant pioneer at the helm.

Unfortunately, Jonathan Cheban, whose campaign to rebrand from Kim Kardashian’s best mate to food authority du jour still shows no signs of slowing down, isn’t impressed. The self-appointed food god, who will soon be legally called Foodgōd, but is not yet legally called Foodgōd, declared the new food hall “dead” while visiting the city, claiming the illustrious department store had ruined what was once one of his favourite places with its new food options.

Cheban later told Eater that while “Harrods is my favourite of all time,” the changes at the food hall have left it “dark and depressing.” Even worse, his favourites have gone: “that legendary baby chicken place” — Harrods’ esteemed rotisserie — has gone, and now “it’s like eating at a funeral.” Regardless, he wanted it to be clear that despite it all, “I love Harrods.” Perhaps he could bring in some of his soon-to-be released signature sauces, including a barbecue and white truffle number, to mix things up.

On his last visit to London, Cheban rejected small and medium noodles at Chopstix U.K. for a ‘Foodgōd’ box that would likely feed 15 people and almost certainly got thrown away afterwards. His approach to dining revels in the excessive, shocking, expensive, and “amazing” — all the food he eats is amazing, and it’s amazing that he’s eating it, and it’s amazing that over three million people want to watch him eat it, too.

That’s it then. £200 million down the drain. Harrods should pull the plug. The man with the golden ... Chicken wings ... Has spoken. Because that’s how Instagram works, right: influencers make grand, unsustainable pronouncements and everybody follows. RIP Harrods. R I P.

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