Peckham bistro Levan will replace Brick House Bread — the hugely popular bakery that provided owner Nicholas Balfe’s restaurant group with sourdough for years and was forced to close after Christmas — with Larry’s, a New York City-inspired space that will pivot from daytime Jewish deli food to nighttime small plates.
The evening menu — including pig’s head ragu with Sichuan peppercorn, XO cabbage and clams, and a devilled crab dish — leans towards the likes of Wildair and Olmsted in New York City while holding fast on London’s current faves: fresh pasta and an emphasis on the method and visuals of baking and making, which will take place on a marble bench at the heart of the restaurant.
The morning menu is all lox, latkes, dill pickles, and eggs, while sandwiches — another of the city’s current fixations — will include a meatball melt on focaccia. Larry’s will also bake, which is a move given the space’s history, offering cheesecake, doughnuts, and pies, as well as a morning trade. The colour palette is orange and green, with Eames chairs and banquettes — Levan, next door, is one of the city’s more particularly styled bistros and this looks to follow suit; a concise list of ten wines paired by style anchors the drink offer.
Balfe says: “We’ve cherry-picked everything we love about eating in New York, and combined them into the kind of place we would want in our neighbourhood.”
Larry’s is slated to open March 2020. More soon.