Sushi master Endo Kazutoshi has “opened” an elegant, wood-panelled companion to his Michelin-starred counter in White City, Endo at the Rotunda. Sumi, which is named after his mother, has opened at 157 Westbourne Grove in Notting Hill, taking over from Martin Morales’ Andina.
For now, it is one of the most beautiful takeaway bars in the city, serving a trio of boxes — a vegan box; a premium sashimi box; and “THE SUMI Box” — from an incredibly serene room. The latter is a trio of robata-grilled salmon; raw akami tuna and seared ōtoro with ginger and soy; and a chirashi of akami, ōtoro, salmon, hamachi, sea bass, sea bream, and eel, while the premium sashimi box contains the same fish as the chirashi. The vegan box features agedashi tofu, a kombu salad, and fried rice with mushrooms.
Sumi will aim to open in full in January, pending changes to the coronavirus restrictions on London. It follows Katzuoshi’s success at the Rotunda, where attention to detail in his 18 and 15 course omakase extends to bringing in barrels of water at a certain pH from Kazutoshi’s home village for rice, while the enviable supplier network he built up during his time at Zuma delivers impeccable fish. A la carte is available, both in the singular edomae tradition and Kazutoshi’s creative personal stylings, and it’s appropriately expensive. Sumi is designed to be a little more approachable, relatively speaking, without any less devoted focus to craft and quality.