New York Times Moves ‘Beyond Porridge and Boiled Mutton’ With Margot and Fergus Henderson Profile

London’s most influential dining couple gets the NYT treatment

Congratulations to the New York Times for writing a piece on the state of London food that isn’t laden with out-of-date generalisations. 2018’s ‘Beyond Porridge and Boiled Mutton’ caused consternation for its “drab baseline” of generalisations and strange city geographies, so it’s somewhat fitting that a restaurant couple who would absolutely serve superb versions of both dishes — Fergus and Margot Henderson of St. John at The French House, St. John, and Rochelle Canteen — is the paper’s next subject. Addressing “the legend” around what Eater London contributor Anna Sulan Masing calls “this magical narrative with rose-colored glasses about what Britain” — and its food — “used to be,” and taking St. John’s alumni as improvisers from its baseline, Julia Moskin interrogates the possible lack of diversity in a restaurant that at least appears to be so fiercely “British.” A photo caption calls Shoreditch “newly hip” ... But don’t hold that against them. [New York Times]

And in other news...

• London’s restaurant hypebeasts are flocking to a hot, hot restaurant which is ... Six years old?
• Nuno Mendes is out of Michelin-starred tasting menu space Mãos in Shoreditch.
• Shrove Tuesday is next week, so here are the best pancakes in the city.
• Eyal Jagermann, co-founder of London’s everyone-thinks-it’s-still-hot-but-is-it-really restaurant The Barbary, is doing a hummus-centric supper club called Anan with a view to a permanent opening. [Hot Dinners]
• Good tweet: