London’s most influential dining couple gets the NYT treatment
Congratulations to the New York Times for writing a piece on the state of London food that isn’t laden with out-of-date generalisations. 2018’s ‘Beyond Porridge and Boiled Mutton’ caused consternation for its “drab baseline” of generalisations and strange city geographies, so it’s somewhat fitting that a restaurant couple who would absolutely serve superb versions of both dishes — Fergus and Margot Henderson of St. John at The French House, St. John, and Rochelle Canteen — is the paper’s next subject. Addressing “the legend” around what Eater London contributor Anna Sulan Masing calls “this magical narrative with rose-colored glasses about what Britain” — and its food — “used to be,” and taking St. John’s alumni as improvisers from its baseline, Julia Moskin interrogates the possible lack of diversity in a restaurant that at least appears to be so fiercely “British.” A photo caption calls Shoreditch “newly hip” ... But don’t hold that against them. [New York Times]
And in other news...
- London’s restaurant hypebeasts are flocking to a hot, hot restaurant which is ... Six years old?
- Nuno Mendes is out of Michelin-starred tasting menu space Mãos in Shoreditch.
- Shrove Tuesday is next week, so here are the best pancakes in the city.
- Eyal Jagermann, co-founder of London’s everyone-thinks-it’s-still-hot-but-is-it-really restaurant The Barbary, is doing a hummus-centric supper club called Anan with a view to a permanent opening. [Hot Dinners]
- Good tweet:
I'm going to go to bed at 3 pm today because I got so tired scrolling to the end of a food blog post to get the recipe for lasagna. I may go to the emergency room.— emily nunn (@EmilyRNunn) February 17, 2020