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New York Times Moves ‘Beyond Porridge and Boiled Mutton’ With Margot and Fergus Henderson Profile

The prestigious publication finally catches up with London’s food — mostly

Margot Henderson, left, and Fergus Henderson, right David M. Benett/Getty Images

London’s most influential dining couple gets the NYT treatment

Congratulations to the New York Times for writing a piece on the state of London food that isn’t laden with out-of-date generalisations. 2018’s ‘Beyond Porridge and Boiled Mutton’ caused consternation for its “drab baseline” of generalisations and strange city geographies, so it’s somewhat fitting that a restaurant couple who would absolutely serve superb versions of both dishes — Fergus and Margot Henderson of St. John at The French House, St. John, and Rochelle Canteen — is the paper’s next subject. Addressing “the legend” around what Eater London contributor Anna Sulan Masing calls “this magical narrative with rose-colored glasses about what Britain” — and its food — “used to be,” and taking St. John’s alumni as improvisers from its baseline, Julia Moskin interrogates the possible lack of diversity in a restaurant that at least appears to be so fiercely “British.” A photo caption calls Shoreditch “newly hip” ... But don’t hold that against them. [New York Times]

And in other news...

St. John

26 Saint John Street, , England EC1M 4AY 020 7251 0848 Visit Website

Rochelle Canteen

16 Playground Gardens, , England E2 7FA 020 3928 8328 Visit Website

The French House

49 Dean Street, , England W1D 5BG 020 7437 2477 Visit Website


41 Redchurch Street, , England E2 7DJ 020 7739 9733 Visit Website


69 Lafayette Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11217 Visit Website

The Barbary

3332 Grand Avenue, , CA 94610 (510) 922-9919