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Welcome back to Insta Stories, a column examining the London restaurant scene through the often-problematic medium of Instagram. This week’s entry will likely be the last one for a while, so thanks for reading.
News of the week
David Chang’s characterisation of the issue facing the hospitality industry as a “real life trolley problem” certainly gets to the agonising dilemma confronting London restaurant operators as they weigh up a response to COVID-19. But if anything it undersells just how nightmarish this particular predicament is: at least in most examples of the trolley problem the parameters are clearly defined, and the consequences of each action are clearly stated. With no clear guidance, no free financial safety-net, and no idea of how long things will get worse before they get better, it is impossible for anyone to make anything like an informed decision — which may explain the wide range of responses from an industry just trying to get by whilst keeping friends, family, staff and customers safe. Shutting down completely, without any insurance against lost revenues and recurring costs like rent, could, in most cases, be something close to suicidal. Staying open, potentially furthering the spread of the disease, clearly runs up against the government’s belated and infuriatingly open-ended advice. Perhaps delivery will be a salve, perhaps business models can bend without breaking, perhaps the financial stimulus package will provide a crumb of comfort. If not, one of London’s most vibrant, diverse and durable industries will have effectively been forced to fend for itself, in its time of greatest need. Hundreds of thousands of employers and employees — and millions of customers — will be hoping that it somehow makes it through.
Good news of the week
If hospitality will never be the same again, then Instagram might also be about to change forever. A huge reduction in restaurant visits means a huge reduction in photos taken at those restaurants; a once-in-a-generation event like the present global pandemic is likely to lead to a significant re-evaluation of how platforms can be used in the service of those in need. Already, there have been examples of accounts sharing tips on how best to prepare for the lengthy period of self-isolation that we are all about to endure, or highlighting ways in which it is possible to help out local restaurants without walking through their doors. It is this, perhaps, that offers the strongest sense of hope for the future: humans are capable of incredible kindness and goodness; this crisis will be so much easier to weather with these qualities at the fore. For now: stay safe, stay inside, and stay supportive of the restaurants and people that make this industry what it is, and what it will, hopefully, continue to be.