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Welcome back to Insta Stories, a column examining the London restaurant scene through the often-problematic medium of Instagram. This week’s filter is anarchic.
News of the week
Magicicada is a genus of North American insect with an interesting evolutionary quirk: it only emerges from its underground hiding place to feed above-ground every 13 or 17 years. Entomologists have proposed several explanations for this bizarre behaviour, the most plausible of which is that a lifecycle geared around prime numbers makes it highly unlikely that the cicada will emerge at a time when predator and rival cicada populations are at their peak. For an example of what happens when species don’t follow the Magicicada principle, look no further than the nation’s bookshelves, which are about to host a battle royale between Yotam Ottolenghi and Nigella Lawson. Other cookbook writers should probably find a nice cosy basement and hunker down.
Seasonal delicacy klaxon of the week
So close, and yet so far. Just when it looked like it was possible to go a whole week without another arcane foodstuff to get hyped for, along comes the hot cross bun. Expect savoury versions, grotesquely over-stuffed versions, multicoloured versions, sourdough versions. It’s going to be a long Lent, people.
Black metal album cover of the week
[Devil’s horns emoji]
Iconography of the week
Four Legs, producers of arguably London’s best burger, have now produced one of London’s most recognisable stickers — a highly appealing shot of the dish in question that is now being liberally festooned over the residency’s Islington neighbourhood. The Byrons, Guys Five and Burgers Honest in the area had best beware: one of these above their door is a Mafia-style warning that someone is aggressively trying to drink their milkshake.
Caption of the week
Someone tell Tracey Emin she missed a trick.
Cursed toothpaste of the week
The smoked cod’s roe supremacy reveals its latest weapon.
Teaser of the week
In the time it takes to process a single Instagram post, Anna Tobias at Café Deco jumped towards the top of any right-thinking food dork’s wish list for 2020. And where other chefs might be tempted to bait Instagram hypebeasts with a drip-feed of architectural creations purpose-made for the ‘gram, Tobias went with… a plate of ham and some remoulade. It’s a low-key flex that in other hands might be seen as being on the cutting edge of Instagram-based marketing, given the increasing preference for “authenticity” in social media content (see: the proliferation of highly personal captions offering candid revelations about the poster). In Tobias’ case, it’s more likely to be… just a plate of ham and some remoulade, the sort of no-frills, unaffected fare that makes Café Deco such an exciting prospect. Perhaps time will tell – although it’s a safe bet that her menu is unlikely to feature deliquescing tiramisu jizz-cakes.
Heartwarming victory of the week
It’s got a bit dusty in here suddenly, hasn’t it?
Winter tomato of the week
A new category, saluting how chefs are using this season’s most under-the-radar signifier of impeccable sourcing: a genuinely edible winter tomato. Juicy.
Presentational flourish of the week
Rockpool mania shows no sign of abating — and is this the first domestic use..?
Dish of the week
Just add buttered toast.
Shot of the week
It seems bizarre to be heralding the arrival of spring when it doesn’t really feel like we’ve had a winter yet, but… has spring sprung?