clock menu more-arrow no yes

Filed under:

Go to Stamford Hill for a Smoky Challah Hot Dog This Weekend

Or: go for sourdough, scrolls, and “things” in Ealing; vegan Ethiopian food in Tufnell Park; Isaan Thai in Hammersmith; an Apulian speciality in Bethnal Green

Deli 98’s hot dog
A smoky, snappy hot dog at Deli 98, Stamford Hill
David Jay Paw

This weekly column suggests London restaurants to try over the weekend. There are three rules: The restaurants must not be featured in either the Eater London 38 Essential map, or the monthly updated heatmap, and the recommendations must be outside Zone 1. In need of even more London restaurant recommendations? Head to the 5 to Try restaurant recommendation archive.


Burnt Norton

Burnt Norton is the kind of cafe whose footfalls echo in the memory, resolute against the airspace aesthetic and attitude and existing entirely for its local community, many of whom walk around the corner from Ealing’s Walpole Park with dogs in tow. So, there’s sourdough, but one of its own, with a crust like the surface of a planet, dry concrete, brown edged, the interior neither too dense nor so pockmarked that anything on it tumbles through the gaps. There’s speciality coffee, but of the apostatic Monmouth school, offering a spectrum of origins to try and compare over one, revered roast.

More dough makes assertively spiced cinnamon scrolls to give dentists nightmares and is wrapped round almonds like an optical illusion, a spiral so involving that it might cause dizziness. Time present and time past live in books that line the walls, including Jane Grigson and Gabriel García Márquez, with breakfast “things” chalked up on blackboards that promise eggs and chorizo and cheese. It has a kind of spare but lyrical austerity that perfectly fits what inspired its name: T.S. Eliot’s Four Quartets. Oh, and the owner is a certified Google Reviews reply guy in all the right ways. —James Hansen
18 St Mary’s Road, Ealing W5 5ES

Deli Ninety Eight

To grow up in Stamford Hill or Golders Green in the 90s, was to experience a type of Jewish food a world away from the new-Jerusalem paradigm that dominates London today: A cuisine of grilled meats, of hummus with freshly baked Yemeni bread, of za’atar and pomegranates. No, before that, Jewish food in London was a realm of fried things, of pickles and of cold herring, a cuisine born of Mitteleuropa, an eking out something from scarce and unpromising ingredients. Ottolenghi’s Plenty this was not. That food, for better or worse, feels like it is dying out here, but can still be experienced at Deli Ninety Eight, one of the very few delis of its type that still caters to the Haredim of Stamford Hill. Thursday is the best time to come when their larder is fully stocked ahead of Shabbat and everyone is taking home bags laden with cholent, mustard herring, and compot. There is a Yiddish word, sometimes used pejoratively, that describes this food well: “heimish”, homely.

The dishes that most people eat-in are remarkably similar to a home-cooked meal or canteen food: meat and two veg, stews, latkes, mashed potato, potato balls, potato blintz, potato kugel. There’s even lo mein and General Tso’s nuggets, in a nod to the well documented Jewish love of Chinese food. For Gentiles, the menu that makes the most sense is the sandwich one: a New Yorker chock with steak thins, pastrami, fried egg, and dill mayo, or a sweet pulled beef number. Best of all is the hot dog, burly and beefy in a soft challah bun (all new wave sandwich shops could exponentially improve their offerings through sourcing good challah), all smoke and snap, loaded with chosen condiments: pickles, sweet mustard, chillies of course. Deli Ninety Eight isn’t exactly the last of its kind, but it’s a welcome monochromatic contrast to the variegated, explosive colours of London’s new “Levantine” joints: it’s a reminder that sometimes the best choices are between five types of roast chicken, seven types of potato, and a decent mustard. —Jonathan Nunn
98 High Road, Stamford Hill N15 6JR

Engocha

Of all the African cuisines, Ethiopian is the most vegan-friendly, because approximately one-third of the Coptic Christian calendar has meat- and dairy-free days. The lack of dairy means niter kibbeh is omitted, the spiced aged butter that gives many of the wots their characteristic fermentation funk and an intriguing backnote of slight rancidity that harks back to an ancient era. On the plus side, the butter is an acquired taste, so without it dishes are more suitable for the contemporary palate and those who’re new to the food. Tufnell Park’s pioneering Ethiopian restaurants Lalibela and the Queen Of Sheba have been serving excellent vegetarian options for decades; now a family-run Ethiopian grocer and butcher nearby has changed direction to become a vegan daytime café. Its name refers to a small bread made from the last piece of dough.

This cosy no-frills venue taps into two emerging trends: first, that of vegan Ethiopian eateries quietly opening across the capital; and second, formerly omnivore businesses relaunching as vegan. Here there’s a choice of between six to eight wots, priced at £6 for three, £7.50 for four, and £9 for five, with a side of either injera or rice. Spinach and whole green lentils scented with cinnamon and garlic, and green beans sweet with onions and yellow peppers, are the perfect foil to the spiciness of misir kiki — a stand-out brick-red split lentil stew warm with its berbere spicing of cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, fenugreek, and dried red chillies. Soft rolls of injera, here made with teff and brown rice, look like steamrolled Staffordshire oatcakes and, like in many Ethiopian restaurants, are available to buy. There’s also a proper coffee ceremony, featuring heirloom variety beans from Ethiopia’s most storied growing regions: Harrar, Sidamo, Jimma, and Yirgacheffe. —Sejal Sukhadwala
143 Fortress Road, Tufnell Park, NW5 2HR

La Cantina Sociale Caffè Pizzeria

Arancini spots and pizza places have ballooned in London like a well-risen crust in recent years. But another regional, circular snack, popular in Italy, has proved more difficult to find. Pucce, or puccia — the Apulian answer to an ancient global tradition of eating bread with almost any other fresh, local ingredient around — has been sadly overlooked in the city. The small, slightly puffy discs made of leftover pizza flour are griddle-cooked to create a simultaneously airy, chewy and cripsy dome, in which to stuff anything the heart desires. Traditionally, this entails sun dried tomatoes, salt, cheeses, herbs and cold meats or fish — all creatively muddled together to form a multi-textural showcase of the area’s seasonal highlights. Pucce is what La Cantina Sociale does best. Freshly made to order and filled with a carnival of different flavours, these sandwiches are among some of the best value in London, a steal at £6. A version with rocket, mozzerella and salami is a creamy, peppery delight. Pizza at the small Bethnal Green restaurant, which also stocks a range of Italian groceries, is also unsurprisingly solid, being made from the same base as the pucce. There is structural integrity here to hold a variety of toppings, but enough diaphanous crunch for several helpings. —Shekha Vyas
E2, Railway Arches, 300 Cambridge Heath Road, Bethnal Green E2 9HA

101 Thai Kitchen

For a taste of north eastern Thai food in West London, look no further than 101 Thai Kitchen. Specialising in cuisine from the country’s landlocked Isaan province, Suttichai Se-Upara and his wife Dujdoa opened the restaurant back in 2004. It’s still just as much a family affair today. Chef Bee Byrne (aka ‘Auntie Bee’) runs the pass while Suttichai’s sister, Parptawan Pukdeethai, keeps things smooth at the front of house.

101’s coral exterior leads on to the restaurant’s equally fuchsia insides, where a glut of classics and deep cuts warm diners’ insides. Som tum; ผัดเผ็ดปลาดุก (spicy stir-fried catfish). Som turn pu is the pick of the papaya salads — pounded till its fragrant flavours leak into one another as home cooked bpoo kem, salted crab, provides a pleasant saline nip on the finish. Ordering the laab ped roi et — an unholy marriage of duck meat and chicken giblets that singes lips like a three hour snog — is a real veteran’s move. As is giving those plates a portion of traditional Isaan sausage for company. Those fermented franks arrive in a pert trio; pungent with enough garlic to put a nix on any actual snogging later. Not that it’ll matter, as diners leave 101 feeling full, content and part of the family. —Lucas Oakeley
352 King Street, Hammersmith W6 0RX

Story

199 Tooley Street, , England SE1 2JX 020 7183 2117 Visit Website

High Street

High Street, , England KT3

Texture

34 Portman Street, London, W1H 7BY Visit Website

Mother

Battersea Power Station, London, SW11 8AB Visit Website

Cafe East

100 Redriff Road, , England SE16 7LH 020 7252 1212 Visit Website

The Sun

4 North Street, , England SM5 2HU 020 8773 4549 Visit Website

P Franco

107 Lower Clapton Road, , England E5 0NP 020 8533 4660 Visit Website

Aside

56 Goldsmith Road, , England SE15 5TF 020 7358 1760 Visit Website

Eat Vietnam

234 Evelyn Street, , England SE8 5BZ 020 8691 9888 Visit Website

Aubergine

106 Mitcham Road, , England SW17 9NG 020 8244 1020 Visit Website

Aladin Kebabish

147-149 West Hendon Broadway, , England NW9 7EA 020 8203 9777 Visit Website

40 Maltby St

40 Maltby Street, , England SE1 3PA

Percy Ingle

70 Broadway Market, , England E8 4QJ Visit Website

Men

51 Chatsworth Road, London, Greater London E5 0LH Visit Website

Namak Mandi

25 Upper Tooting Road, , England SW17 7TS 020 8767 6120

Wander

214 Stoke Newington High Street, , England N16 7HU 020 7249 7283 Visit Website

Noble Rot

51 Lamb’s Conduit St, London, Greater London WC1N 3NB +44 20 7242 8963 Visit Website

Tart

65 Lordship Lane, , England SE22 8EP 020 8299 4989 Visit Website

Yardarm

238 Francis Road, , England E10 6NQ 020 8556 2444 Visit Website

Quality Wines

88 Farringdon Road, , England EC1R 3EA 020 3602 8115 Visit Website

Sign up for the newsletter Sign up for the Eater London newsletter

The freshest news from the local food world