This Is Not a ‘Fish Finger’ Sandwich, It’s a Pollock Fritter Sandwich

Welcome back to Insta Stories, a column examining the London restaurant scene through the often-problematic medium of Instagram. This week’s filter is thirsty work.

News of the week

The words “40 Maltby Street” and “Instagram hype” go about as well together as chalk and an impeccably curated, beautifully presented plate of cheese. Everything — everything — about every London chefs’ favourite restaurant discreetly insists on decorum and self-effacement, from the uncluttered language of the beloved blackboard to the no-frills no-gimmickry food and drink on offer to the tucked-away space itself. And yet. Fried protein? Tick. Gram-friendly pops of colour? Tick. Ahem, “droolworthy” gobs of aioli? All packed into an honest-to-goodness sandwich, i.e. perhaps the most-photographed foodstuff of the past few years? Tick! Is this … the world’s first accidentally Insta-famous dish?

Crowded category of the week

If the 40MSando™ isn’t evidence enough that the whole world has once again gone elaborate sandwich mad, presenting exhibits B and C.

London eater of the week

London’s most exciting and inventive high end splurge-fest: The Sea, The Sea or Ikoyi, Ikoyi? Why not both?

Impressive haul of the week

Not a bad July.

Salumi of the week

Urgent petition to make ‘Bear Ham (£9)’ a mainstay on every east London wine bar snack menu.

World-conquering baking project of the week

To search the terms ‘Basque cheesecake’ on Instagram is to enter an alarming rabbit hole that illustrates quite how stealthily widespread this one-time regional delicacy arguably perfected at the San Sebastián institution La Viña has become. Australian truffle ones! Two Michelin-star chef ones! Local hero bakery ones! Local hero restaurant ones! Given its economy of both sourcing (buy a lot of cream cheese) and method (cook it until its burnt), the stage has long been set for a period in the social media spotlight. Just remember: oloroso dulce is the way to go, pairing-wise.

Chaotic evil, or maybe good, but probably evil of the week

Suspending judgement until actually having tasted it, but a liquorice lolly — especially when the alternative is the elite tier “colourised” Twister — sounds like pure hellspawn.

Dish of the week

Expect to see something similar on the menu — and, more importantly, Instagram account — of every Spanish place with a lick of sense within the next month.

Shot of the week

“Men cooking stuff over fire,” but make it appetising.