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Shoreditch’s Version of Healing Is a New Lifestyle Hotel With a Famous Chef on the Pans

Plus ça change, as Shoreditch’s Curtain Hotel and restaurant by Marcus Samuelsson becomes Shoreditch’s Mondrian Hotel and restaurant by Dani Garcia

The exterior of the red-bricked Curtain Hotel in Shoreditch, soon to become Mondrian Shoreditch
The Curtain Hotel in Shoreditch will rebrand as the Mondrian, with Spanish chef Dani Garcia overseeing restaurant Bibo
Mondrian Hotels [Official Photo]

The London hotel equation is alive and well folks

Between 2017 and 2019, boutique London hotels across the city arrived at a winning formula: They would open destination restaurants overseen by chefs already extremely famous for destination restaurants, but do so in a way that walked a tightrope between “dishes recognisably influenced by this chef” and “dishes that a tired person with plenty of money or a sceney nightlife person with plenty of money will order when they check in to a hotel.” Theatrical preparations of classics, like a Spanish tortilla weighed down with caviar.

But with the Covid-19 pandemic having permanently disrupted both international travel and its relationship with restaurants, surmised best by the word “gastrotourism,” they are now in need of a new formula for success they are actually going to continue doing exactly the same thing.

And so here is Bibo by Dani Garcia, the replacement for Red Rooster by Marcus Samuelsson, at Mondrian Shoreditch, itself a replacement for The Curtain Hotel in Shoreditch. Garcia, an Andalusian chef, is best known for his eponymous three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Marbella, which he closed in 2019 declaring himself “fed up with haute cuisine.” (He did not, however, engage in the theatre of “giving back” his three stars.) Bibo already exists in Madrid, Marbella, Cádiz, and Doha, offering dinky brioches, an oxtail ravioli dish served since 1998, and familiar hotel dining keystones: a tableside Caesar salad; an extensive raw bar; croquetas, steaks, and burgers. It’s expected to open in late June 2021, and will have Nobu’s newish hotel to contend with.

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