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Peter Luger, Keens, Delmonico’s, your boys are taking one hell of a beefing
Lauded steakhouse group Hawksmoor is taking coals to Newcastle and chargrilled beef to New York City by opening a steak restaurant today, 8 September, in the United Charities Building close to Manhattan’s Granmercy Park. Co-founders Will Beckett and Huw Gott had intended to open in 2019, but the Covid-19 pandemic saw the opening pushed back.
While some of the menu is necessarily geared towards NYC’s restaurant lingua franca — of crudo, of beets, of Maine lobster — a good deal of the restaurant’s best-known and most self-consciously British dishes are making the trip across the Atlantic too. There’s plenty of bone marrow, atop oysters or just roasted, as well as potted beef and bacon; “traditional English trimmings” on roast chicken; and a bone marrow gravy that will doubtless occasion some gentle explanation at the table.
The last high-profile British export to the capital was place-to-be-seen-but-perhaps-not-eat Bluebird, which took a critical mauling in 2018. Expect Hawksmoor to be rather better received — and besides, everybody loves a little restaurant beef.
And in other news...
- Take a look inside Koya Ko, which will bring London’s finest bowls of udon to Broadway Market from 13 September.
- Chantelle Nicholson will close Tredwells, the Covent Garden restaurant first opened by Marcus Wareing in 2014 and taken over by Nicholson in 2018. The move chimes with her long-held plan to open a restaurant of her own in a new guise.
- Celebrated restaurant The Barbary will replace Jacob the Angel in Neal’s Yard with The Barbary Next Door, a physical instantiation of its Covid-19 lockdown delivery service. The space will remain an all-day affair, with pastries, breads, and wine — Jacob the Angel is set to open elsewhere in the near future.
- Good tweet:
Just been angrily taken to task for making fun of Gen X by someone with “snacktivist” in their bio… sweet vindication
— James Greig (@jamesdgreig) September 7, 2021