One Does Not Simply Open a London Restaurant Development Without Burgers

Borough Yards is adding Burger and Beyond — the street food truck-turned restaurant best-known for its bacon butter burger — to its restaurant line-up. It’s the first of two new spaces for the brand, which will also open a Soho restaurant on Old Compton Street.

Behind one of London’s best burgers, and indeed one of its most evil sides in the form of tater tots topped with bacon, Parmesan, ranch, and buffalo sauce, Burger and Beyond is a pleasingly trashy, but pared-back invocation of the “gourmet burger years,” when every patty in the city had to have five toppings in order not to be laughed at. The city has evolved towards a more ascetic appreciation of smashburgers, but the brand’s roots in American diner excess (rather than “let’s put something stupid on it” excess) have helped it endure that transition. Yes, pancetta and brown butter mayonnaise on aged beef is kind of a lot, but it isn’t too much.

Both new restaurants will accordingly offer fresh dishes: the “legit truffle” burger with both black truffle and port braised onions (perhaps the gourmet burger years are back...) in SE1 and a pork belly topped-number in Soho. Borough Yards, meanwhile, has done what it always had to do: make like every other restaurant development in the city, and make sure it’s got beef.

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