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Popular Indonesian Street Food Specialist Sets Its Sights on Central London

Pino’s Warung, a hit at Camden Market, will open a restaurant called Toba in St. James’s

A birdseye view of satay chicken skewers, fish balls, and beef rendang with rice and crispy shallots.
An array of Indonesian dishes from Pino’s Warung in Camden Market, which will open Toba later this year.
Pino’s Warung

A popular and excellent Indonesian street food specialist will move into some prime central London restaurant estate this February. Pino’s Warung, which serves outstanding beef rendang, satay, and myriad fried snacks, will open Toba, taking over Michelin-starred Ikoyi’s restaurant in St. James’s Market.

Founder Pino Edwards is currently hiring for staff across the new opening, which was originally slated for January. Named for the vast natural lake in Sumatra which occupies the caldera of the Toba supervolcano, it will expand on the repertoire from Pino’s Warung, aided by the extra space and kitchen resources afforded at the site, which is significantly larger than the street food stall’s current arch.

Edwards opened Pino’s Warung in the unfortunate month of January 2020, debuting long-simmered meatball bakso, gado gado salad, and satay. He has since been able to expand with a range of weekend specials, including bebek penyet, a duck leg cooked in fat and smashed to crisp, the popular nasi goreng, and occasional regional specials from North Sulawesi, Kalimantan, and Bali.