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Beef wellington at London restaurant Holborn Dining Room John Carey/Holborn Dining Room

Where to Find London’s Best Beef Wellington

Rosy, tender fillet, earthy duxelles, and crisp, rich pastry — a special occasion dish for the ages

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Beef wellington is quite simple at its heart: rosy, tender beef fillet; a deeply savoury and earthy mushroom duxelles; maybe a pancake, or similar, to shield the beef, and crisp, burnished puff pastry. Madeira sauce; horseradish; maybe some truffle. It’s a symbol of celebration, excess, luxury — loosely, stress on loose — tied to 1815, national pride, beating the French at their own culinary game, all things that British restaurants were desperate to do in the 1980s through early 2000s. It’s history. It’s aristocracy. It’s money.

Given it is now 2022, and two of those three things — excessive beef eating, gastronomic excess as the lone symbol of the gourmet, being a bit nationalist — are no longer publicly acceptable, beef wellington looks, honestly, quite weird. Outdated, even. But no: its smaller, more nimble cousins, the pie and the pithivier are deeply en vogue, and this renaissance, combined with a newish emphasis on craft, detail, and intricacy that Instagram really loves, puts a whole new identity on the beef wellington. It’s an it dish, for chefs and kitchens as much as diners, an opportunity to deliver spectacle. In that spirit, here are London’s best beef wellingtons, and one wildcard from the sea.

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Note: Restaurants on this map are listed geographically.

Holborn Dining Room

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The ne plus ultra of London’s restaurant pastry game, it might no longer be Calum Franklin’s beef wellington at Holborn Dining Room, but it remains a three-day journey into attention to detail in pursuit of excellence. A hand-cut mushroom duxelles; 45-day-aged beef from Warren’s in Cornwall, brushed with mustard, wrapped in the fungi, in spinach, in pancake, before being wrapped in unrested pastry to take advantage of shrinkage for the first time in human history. Wednesdays only.

Beef wellington at London restaurant Holborn Dining Room
Beef wellington at London restaurant Holborn Dining Room
Holborn Dining Room [Official Photo]

Bob Bob Ricard

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A 35-day dry-aged Aberdeenshire beef fillet is the centrepiece of this Soho luxury den, with the added ritziness of a truffle gravy, whose deep earthiness plays well with the duxelles. When pressing for champagne, it’s only apt that the main course is just as extra.

Beef Wellington with truffle gravy
Bob Bob Ricard/Facebook

Savoy Grill

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Ah, the beef wellington, a historical dish, a relic of times gone by, a relic of when Gordon Ramsay’s main concerns were how latticed his pastry was and how thickly the beef was sliced, and not whether opening a pan-Asian restaurant loaded with flattening stereotypes was a good idea. The man is obsessed with wellington, truly mad for it, and this version — served with horseradish cream and a red wine jus, presented on a trolley — is the winner across his portfolio.

Beef wellington
Savoy Grill [Official Photo]

The Hemingway

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The Hemingway pub — rightfully named after the American author who never hid his love for food, and especially meat — serves an ambitious menu, including pub favourites such as scotch egg, fish and chips, and a beef burger (there’s a veggie option available as well), but it’s the hefty beef wellington for two at £38 that takes the cake. Many pints and a beef wellington later, there’s much else to do but to sleep...like these gentlemen did.

London’s best beef wellington at the Hemingway The Hemingway [Official Photo]

45 Jermyn St

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A modern European brasserie serving a luxurious classic — what’s not to like when the dish boasts of dauphinoise potatoes, green beans and peppercorn sauce on the side, perfect accessories to the main event.

45 Jermyn St/Instagram

The Ritz London

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The Michelin-starred Ritz with its sparkling chandeliers, towering marble columns and floor to ceiling windows doesn’t just boast of spectacular settings but also of elegant cooking with seasonal British ingredients. Made with organic beef from the Cornish moors, accompanied by celeriac and Perigord truffle, and priced at £98, the beef wellington isn’t just a dish, it’s more like an experience.

The Goring Dining Room

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The Goring doesn’t believe that beef wellington has maxed out its extra credentials, so it puts it on a trolley and wheels it around the dining room like a bovine totem, available to be shared between two.

The Goring [Official Photo]

WILDCARD: Lobster Wellington at Claridge's

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Would a (beef) wellington by any other name, taste the same? Well, not if it’s made from lobster. Also, a lobster wellington may sound ludicrous, but it sort of...works? It’s 2020 and if meat wrapped in pastry is a thing, so is shellfish wrapped in pastry. Keep up.

Lobster wellington
Claridge’s/Facebook

Holborn Dining Room

Beef wellington at London restaurant Holborn Dining Room
Beef wellington at London restaurant Holborn Dining Room
Holborn Dining Room [Official Photo]

The ne plus ultra of London’s restaurant pastry game, it might no longer be Calum Franklin’s beef wellington at Holborn Dining Room, but it remains a three-day journey into attention to detail in pursuit of excellence. A hand-cut mushroom duxelles; 45-day-aged beef from Warren’s in Cornwall, brushed with mustard, wrapped in the fungi, in spinach, in pancake, before being wrapped in unrested pastry to take advantage of shrinkage for the first time in human history. Wednesdays only.

Beef wellington at London restaurant Holborn Dining Room
Beef wellington at London restaurant Holborn Dining Room
Holborn Dining Room [Official Photo]

Bob Bob Ricard

Beef Wellington with truffle gravy
Bob Bob Ricard/Facebook

A 35-day dry-aged Aberdeenshire beef fillet is the centrepiece of this Soho luxury den, with the added ritziness of a truffle gravy, whose deep earthiness plays well with the duxelles. When pressing for champagne, it’s only apt that the main course is just as extra.

Beef Wellington with truffle gravy
Bob Bob Ricard/Facebook

Savoy Grill

Beef wellington
Savoy Grill [Official Photo]

Ah, the beef wellington, a historical dish, a relic of times gone by, a relic of when Gordon Ramsay’s main concerns were how latticed his pastry was and how thickly the beef was sliced, and not whether opening a pan-Asian restaurant loaded with flattening stereotypes was a good idea. The man is obsessed with wellington, truly mad for it, and this version — served with horseradish cream and a red wine jus, presented on a trolley — is the winner across his portfolio.

Beef wellington
Savoy Grill [Official Photo]

The Hemingway

London’s best beef wellington at the Hemingway The Hemingway [Official Photo]

The Hemingway pub — rightfully named after the American author who never hid his love for food, and especially meat — serves an ambitious menu, including pub favourites such as scotch egg, fish and chips, and a beef burger (there’s a veggie option available as well), but it’s the hefty beef wellington for two at £38 that takes the cake. Many pints and a beef wellington later, there’s much else to do but to sleep...like these gentlemen did.

London’s best beef wellington at the Hemingway The Hemingway [Official Photo]

45 Jermyn St

45 Jermyn St/Instagram

A modern European brasserie serving a luxurious classic — what’s not to like when the dish boasts of dauphinoise potatoes, green beans and peppercorn sauce on the side, perfect accessories to the main event.

45 Jermyn St/Instagram

The Ritz London

The Michelin-starred Ritz with its sparkling chandeliers, towering marble columns and floor to ceiling windows doesn’t just boast of spectacular settings but also of elegant cooking with seasonal British ingredients. Made with organic beef from the Cornish moors, accompanied by celeriac and Perigord truffle, and priced at £98, the beef wellington isn’t just a dish, it’s more like an experience.

The Goring Dining Room

The Goring [Official Photo]

The Goring doesn’t believe that beef wellington has maxed out its extra credentials, so it puts it on a trolley and wheels it around the dining room like a bovine totem, available to be shared between two.

The Goring [Official Photo]

WILDCARD: Lobster Wellington at Claridge's

Lobster wellington
Claridge’s/Facebook

Would a (beef) wellington by any other name, taste the same? Well, not if it’s made from lobster. Also, a lobster wellington may sound ludicrous, but it sort of...works? It’s 2020 and if meat wrapped in pastry is a thing, so is shellfish wrapped in pastry. Keep up.

Lobster wellington
Claridge’s/Facebook

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