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Beef wellington at London restaurant Holborn Dining Room John Carey/Holborn Dining Room

Where to Find London’s Best Beef Wellington

Rosy, tender fillet, earthy duxelles, and crisp, rich pastry — a special occasion dish for the ages

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Beef wellington is quite simple at its heart: rosy, tender beef fillet; a deeply savoury and earthy mushroom duxelles; maybe a pancake, or similar, to shield the beef, and crisp, burnished puff pastry. Madeira sauce; horseradish; maybe some truffle. It’s a symbol of celebration, excess, luxury — loosely, stress on loose — tied to 1815, national pride, beating the French at their own culinary game, all things that British restaurants were desperate to do in the 1980s through early 2000s. It’s history. It’s aristocracy. It’s money.

Given it is now 2021, and two of those three things — excessive beef eating, gastronomic excess as the lone symbol of the gourmet, being a bit nationalist — are no longer publicly acceptable, beef wellington looks, honestly, quite weird. Outdated, even. But no: its smaller, more nimble cousins, the pie and the pithivier are deeply en vogue, and this renaissance, combined with a newish emphasis on craft, detail, and intricacy that Instagram really loves, puts a whole new identity on the beef wellington. It’s an it dish, for chefs and kitchens as much as diners, an opportunity to deliver spectacle. In that spirit, here are London’s best beef wellingtons, and one wildcard from the sea.

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Note: Restaurants on this map are listed geographically.

1. Holborn Dining Room

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252 High Holborn, Holborn
London WC1V 7EN, UK

The ne plus ultra of London’s restaurant pastry game, Calum Franklin’s beef wellington at Holborn Dining Room is a three-day journey into attention to detail in pursuit of excellence. A hand-cut mushroom duxelles; 45-day-aged beef from Warren’s in Cornwall, brushed with mustard, wrapped in duxelles, in spinach, in pancake, before being wrapped in unrested pastry to take advantage of shrinkage for the first time in human history. Wednesdays only.

Beef wellington at London restaurant Holborn Dining Room
Beef wellington at London restaurant Holborn Dining Room
Holborn Dining Room [Official Photo]

2. Bob Bob Ricard

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1 Upper James St, Soho
London W1F 9DF, UK

A 35-day dry-aged Aberdeenshire beef fillet is the centrepiece of this Soho luxury den, with the added ritziness of a truffle gravy, whose deep earthiness plays well with the duxelles. When pressing for champagne, it’s only apt that the main course is just as extra.

Beef Wellington with truffle gravy
Bob Bob Ricard/Facebook

3. Savoy Grill

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Strand
London WC2R 0EU, UK

Ah, the beef wellington, a historical dish, a relic of times gone by, a relic of when Gordon Ramsay’s main concerns were how latticed his pastry was and how thickly the beef was sliced, and not whether opening a pan-Asian restaurant loaded with flattening stereotypes was a good idea. The man is obsessed with wellington, truly mad for it, and this version — served with horseradish cream and a red wine jus, presented on a trolley — is the winner across his portfolio.

Beef wellington
Savoy Grill [Official Photo]

4. The Hemingway

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84 Victoria Park Rd
London E9 7JL, UK

The Hemingway pub — rightfully named after the American author who never hid his love for food, and especially meat — serves an ambitious menu, including pub favourites such as scotch egg, fish and chips, and a beef burger (there’s a veggie option available as well), but it’s the hefty beef wellington for two at £38 that takes the cake. Many pints and a beef wellington later, there’s much else to do but to sleep...like these gentlemen did.

London’s best beef wellington at the Hemingway The Hemingway [Official Photo]

5. 45 Jermyn St

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45 Jermyn St, St. James's
London SW1Y 6JD, UK

A modern European brasserie serving a luxurious classic — what’s not to like when the dish boasts of dauphinoise potatoes, green beans and peppercorn sauce on the side, perfect accessories to the main event.

45 Jermyn St/Instagram

6. The Ritz London

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150 Piccadilly, St. James's
London W1J 9BR, UK

The Michelin-starred Ritz with its sparkling chandeliers, towering marble columns and floor to ceiling windows doesn’t just boast of spectacular settings but also of elegant cooking with seasonal British ingredients. Made with organic beef from the Cornish moors, accompanied by celeriac and Perigord truffle, and priced at £98, the beef wellington isn’t just a dish, it’s more like an experience.

7. The Goring Dining Room

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15 Beeston Pl, Westminster
London SW1W 0JW, UK

The Goring doesn’t believe that beef wellington has maxed out its extra credentials, so it puts it on a trolley and wheels it around the dining room like a bovine totem, available to be shared between two.

The Goring [Official Photo]

8. WILDCARD: Lobster Wellington at Claridge's

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Brook Street, Mayfair
London W1K 4HR, UK

Would a (beef) wellington by any other name, taste the same? Well, not if it’s made from lobster. Also, a lobster wellington may sound ludicrous, but it sort of...works? It’s 2020 and if meat wrapped in pastry is a thing, so is shellfish wrapped in pastry. Keep up.

Lobster wellington
Claridge’s/Facebook

1. Holborn Dining Room

252 High Holborn, Holborn, London WC1V 7EN, UK
Beef wellington at London restaurant Holborn Dining Room
Beef wellington at London restaurant Holborn Dining Room
Holborn Dining Room [Official Photo]

The ne plus ultra of London’s restaurant pastry game, Calum Franklin’s beef wellington at Holborn Dining Room is a three-day journey into attention to detail in pursuit of excellence. A hand-cut mushroom duxelles; 45-day-aged beef from Warren’s in Cornwall, brushed with mustard, wrapped in duxelles, in spinach, in pancake, before being wrapped in unrested pastry to take advantage of shrinkage for the first time in human history. Wednesdays only.

252 High Holborn, Holborn
London WC1V 7EN, UK

2. Bob Bob Ricard

1 Upper James St, Soho, London W1F 9DF, UK
Beef Wellington with truffle gravy
Bob Bob Ricard/Facebook

A 35-day dry-aged Aberdeenshire beef fillet is the centrepiece of this Soho luxury den, with the added ritziness of a truffle gravy, whose deep earthiness plays well with the duxelles. When pressing for champagne, it’s only apt that the main course is just as extra.

1 Upper James St, Soho
London W1F 9DF, UK

3. Savoy Grill

Strand, London WC2R 0EU, UK
Beef wellington
Savoy Grill [Official Photo]

Ah, the beef wellington, a historical dish, a relic of times gone by, a relic of when Gordon Ramsay’s main concerns were how latticed his pastry was and how thickly the beef was sliced, and not whether opening a pan-Asian restaurant loaded with flattening stereotypes was a good idea. The man is obsessed with wellington, truly mad for it, and this version — served with horseradish cream and a red wine jus, presented on a trolley — is the winner across his portfolio.

Strand
London WC2R 0EU, UK

4. The Hemingway

84 Victoria Park Rd, London E9 7JL, UK
London’s best beef wellington at the Hemingway The Hemingway [Official Photo]

The Hemingway pub — rightfully named after the American author who never hid his love for food, and especially meat — serves an ambitious menu, including pub favourites such as scotch egg, fish and chips, and a beef burger (there’s a veggie option available as well), but it’s the hefty beef wellington for two at £38 that takes the cake. Many pints and a beef wellington later, there’s much else to do but to sleep...like these gentlemen did.

84 Victoria Park Rd
London E9 7JL, UK

5. 45 Jermyn St

45 Jermyn St, St. James's, London SW1Y 6JD, UK
45 Jermyn St/Instagram

A modern European brasserie serving a luxurious classic — what’s not to like when the dish boasts of dauphinoise potatoes, green beans and peppercorn sauce on the side, perfect accessories to the main event.

45 Jermyn St, St. James's
London SW1Y 6JD, UK

6. The Ritz London

150 Piccadilly, St. James's, London W1J 9BR, UK

The Michelin-starred Ritz with its sparkling chandeliers, towering marble columns and floor to ceiling windows doesn’t just boast of spectacular settings but also of elegant cooking with seasonal British ingredients. Made with organic beef from the Cornish moors, accompanied by celeriac and Perigord truffle, and priced at £98, the beef wellington isn’t just a dish, it’s more like an experience.

150 Piccadilly, St. James's
London W1J 9BR, UK

7. The Goring Dining Room

15 Beeston Pl, Westminster, London SW1W 0JW, UK
The Goring [Official Photo]

The Goring doesn’t believe that beef wellington has maxed out its extra credentials, so it puts it on a trolley and wheels it around the dining room like a bovine totem, available to be shared between two.

15 Beeston Pl, Westminster
London SW1W 0JW, UK

8. WILDCARD: Lobster Wellington at Claridge's

Brook Street, Mayfair, London W1K 4HR, UK
Lobster wellington
Claridge’s/Facebook

Would a (beef) wellington by any other name, taste the same? Well, not if it’s made from lobster. Also, a lobster wellington may sound ludicrous, but it sort of...works? It’s 2020 and if meat wrapped in pastry is a thing, so is shellfish wrapped in pastry. Keep up.

Brook Street, Mayfair
London W1K 4HR, UK

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