When is a hot wing not a hot wing? When it comes with mayonnaise rather than blue cheese or ranch; when its skin is rendered soggy by too much sauce, too soon; when the wing is not separated into drum and flat; or when there is scant evidence of essential chilli heat. Exploring London’s world of wings may sound like fun but the duds far outweigh the doozies, particularly when it comes to buffalo.
Fortunately, there’s more than one way to dress a chicken and for every dodgy hot sauce or ill-conceived 10-option menu, there are Thai-style wings deboned and stuffed with fragrant meat and fish mousse, or battered, deep-fried and made sticky with a Vietnamese fish sauce caramel.
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