There was a time when Greek, or Greek-Cypriot, cuisine was capturing Londoners’ imagination as the latest fare, the food to be seen eating. Since the early 20th century, family-run tavernas operated all over the capital, often doubling as popular grill takeaways. And during the eighties—and up until the mid-nineties—Greek dining was as fashionable as its Turkish neighbours are today.
So, what happened? The community began to disperse and integrate into tighter neighbourhoods. An influx of newer cuisines appeared and appealed to diners’ neophyte tendencies. And many businesses, like the sorely missed Spitiko, couldn’t keep up. Greek food is simple, and that went from being its biggest strength to its biggest weakness in quick time.
But diners simply need to look at the city from a wider perspective. Community enclaves in Palmers Green, Southgate, and Bexley offer a vast selection of long-established Greek bakeries and restaurants, serving dishes rarely made outside of Greece and Cyprus and full of local charm. Sit a little longer on the tube, and eat well.
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