Welcome to Eater London’s weekly updated guide to all the temporary food worth knowing about in London. Whether it’s a pop-up residency, a one-off dinner, or something only available one night of the week, these are the capital’s elusive and occasional restaurants worth knowing about before they’re gone.Read More
London’s Best Restaurant Pop-Ups Right Now
All the pop-up adaptations and chef-at-home specialists the city needs to know about
Coco Kwok’s cooking — and documenting of that cooking under @newgatestudio Instagram handle — is a gentle kind of mesmeric. Clams bob in their water, with a sandcastle of anchovy seasoning; placid pies recall time at St. John; omelettes that lazily twist around each other like boomerangs. Sometimes find it at Meletius Coffee in Angel, where a menu of hot: grilled pork shoulder or velvet crab rice wrapped in lotus leaf; cold: cured sea bass in buttermilk, or master stock pig ears or tofu; and green: with cured beef fat dripping, lemon, and chicory reads and eats beautifully. Other times, DM for takeaway via Instagram.
Liu Xiaomian Marylebone
Charlene Liu and Liu Qian specialise in bowls of xiǎomiàn in broths heavy with Sichuan peppercorn, garlic, soy, sesame paste, ginger, and a signature chilli oil. Minced pork, yellow peas, and water spinach are typical toppings, with the dish traditionally eaten for breakfast in Chongqing; glass noodles made from sweet potato starch are also available for a slippy, chewier textural alternative.
Spasia Dinkovski’s hypnotising spirals of burnished pastry don’t just look like what they are — börek from the gods — but the rings on a tree trunk, showing the ancestral traditions that she so lovingly details alongside the pies themselves on Instagram. Check the website for delivery dates across London, which are usually on Fridays.
All Kaps Pizza @ Papo’s Bagels
London has seen much violence against America’s regional pizza vernacular — just ask anyone who has ever been lured in by the promise of “Detroit-style” anywhere in the city and run away crying afterwards. But All Kaps is a pleasing reversal to that trend, where Mid-Atlantic via Sicily tomato pie is puffed and pillowy, and the thinner crust slices pass the bend test. Best of all, the riffy, improvisational whole pizzas, currently inflected with the CPK vibe of teriyaki chicken, are done with aplomb.
Also featured in:
Retan @ Louie Louie
Sommelier and chef team Cameron Dewar and Josh Dallaway bring their travelling supperclub to Louie Louie in Kennington from 28 September for three months, featuring a punchy, French-leaning a La Carte menu paired with low-intervention wines from across Europe. Snacky plates include River Teign oysters and coppa, followed by aged beef tartar with seaweed relish, cured yolk and prawn crackers; salted pollack with kohlrabi, buttermilk and horseradish for mains; and finishing with an indulgent dessert of Island’s chocolate crèmeux with sherry caramel and smoked cream.
Also featured in:
A collaboration between residency specialists Carousel and audiovisual arts festival AVA, this New Year’s Eve event brings two of the most exciting Mexican chefs to London for one night (okay, and lunchtime) only. Rosio Sanchez, of beloved Copenhagen taqueria Hija de Sanchez, and Emme Prieto, of lauded CDMX restaurant Taverna, will cook alongside DJs Call Super and Yung Singh, putting out seven-course tasting menus to their soundtracks.
Another Pantry @ Seven Dials
Safia Shakarchi’s all-encompassing pop-up of some of the best restaurants and food producers in the U.K. returns to London just in time for some serious Christmas shopping. There will be bakes, provisions, books, and paraphernalia from the likes of Coombeshead Farm; St. John; Happy Endings; Cafe Cecilia; Toklas; Willy’s Pies; and Sambal Shiok, as well as a series of workshops covering fruit arrangement and pasta making.
Suba Bakery @ Binch
Popping up between Dalston Junction and Hackney Central, Suba specialises in West African baking. Its arrival at Binch follows many successful weekends at markets around Hackney, particularly Chatsworth Road, with founder Pa Modou serving up tapalapa bread, caraway buns, and soft, stretchy agege loaves.