Welcome to Eater London’s weekly updated guide to all the temporary food worth knowing about in London. Whether it’s a pop-up residency, a one-off dinner, or something only available one night of the week, these are the capital’s elusive and occasional restaurants worth knowing about before they’re gone.Read More
London’s Best Restaurant Pop-Ups Right Now
All the pop-up adaptations and chef-at-home specialists the city needs to know about
1. Liu Xiaomian Marylebone
London W1G 7EQ, UK
Charlene Liu and Liu Qian specialise in bowls of xiǎomiàn in broths heavy with Sichuan peppercorn, garlic, soy, sesame paste, ginger, and a signature chilli oil. Minced pork, yellow peas, and water spinach are typical toppings, with the dish traditionally eaten for breakfast in Chongqing; glass noodles made from sweet potato starch are also available for a slippy, chewier textural alternative.
2. Mystic Börek
Spasia Dinkovski’s hypnotising spirals of burnished pastry don’t just look like what they are — börek from the gods — but the rings on a tree trunk, showing the ancestral traditions that she so lovingly details alongside the pies themselves on Instagram. Having briefly introduced fully fledged delivery, Dinkovski has now returned to the drops and weekend pop-ups that made her name: check Instagram for updates.
3. Newgate Studio
Coco Kwok’s cooking — and documenting of that cooking under @newgatestudio Instagram handle — is a gentle kind of mesmeric. Clams bob in their water, with a sandcastle of anchovy seasoning; placid pies recall time at St. John; omelettes that lazily twist around each other like boomerangs. Sometimes find it at Meletius Coffee in Angel, where a menu of hot: grilled pork shoulder or velvet crab rice wrapped in lotus leaf; cold: cured sea bass in buttermilk, or master stock pig ears or tofu; and green: with cured beef fat dripping, lemon, and chicory reads and eats beautifully. Other times, DM for takeaway via Instagram.
4. Passa Passa @ Tola
London SE15 5DP, UK
Chef Zae Millen takes over Noodle Neighbour at Tola on Peckham High Street with a range of Afro-Caribbean dishes, served Tuesday — Saturday. Snackable small plates like suya skewers, saltfish fritters with plantain ketchup, and cured halibut with scoth bonnet chilli might precede a generous prawn taco platter, or flat iron steak with curried delica pumpkin and green sauce.
5. Black Eats LDN Hackney Market
The latest in a summer program of event collaborations with Bohemia Place, Jackson Mclarty’s Black Eats LDN is reprising its weekend markets, putting the spotlight on Black-owned food traders from across the city. While this edition is daytime, keep an eye out for Friday night events from now through September.
6. Ling Ling’s @ The Gun
British-Chinese chef Jenny Phung’s residency at Hackney pub The Gun was a hit in 2021, and it’s resuming for the new year Wednesday — Sunday. While many dishes lean on Phung’s experiences growing up with Cantonese and Sichuan cuisine, others take a more roving approach and are inspired by travels to Japan and South Korea, refracted through modern London cooking. Expect Sichuan chicken wings; gochujang watermelon with feta; and on Sundays, some inventive roasts.
7. Baruru @ 83 Dalston Lane
London E8 2NG, UK
Keshia Sakarah, the chef and founder of popular Caribbean restaurant Caribe’ in Brixton, will reprise her supper club dedicated to the culinary histories of the Caribbean at a new venue in east London. Baruru, named for the indigenous Kalinago word for plantain, will return on 7 July. This month’s menu will span Grenada, Puerto Rico, Cuba, and Guyana, with crab and callaloo; chiarrones; ropa vieja; and a pine tart.
8. Koya Guest Udon Series @ Koya Ko Hackney
Koya’s mail-order udon was a COVID-19 hit, especially when the restaurant invited London chefs it admired to make bowls of their own. It’s reprising the series in person at Koya Ko in London Fields, with the likes of Cafe Cecilia’s Max Rocha; Sessions Arts Club’s Florence Knight; and Ombra’s MItshel Ibrahim putting together combinations reflective of their own culinary practice.
9. Rambutan Ice @ Rambutan
London SE1 9AD, UK
The sleepy, ambiently beautiful Leila’s Shop has long held a reputation for its summer soft serves: sometimes soft and beige with hazelnut; others lurid purple from fragola grape. Their maker, Sam Lowry has now joined forces with partner Farah Kezou on Soft & Swirly, sticking to the quality flavour formula but making it a little less austere, with joyous sundaes and sticky sauces now accessorising the pristine cones. Their next guise is in partnership with Cynthia Shanmugalingam’s upcoming restaurant Rambutan, putting out the likes of mango; jaggery; watermelon and hibiscus; and buffalo curd swirls during the site’s build in Borough Market.