Welcome to Eater London’s weekly updated guide to all the temporary food worth knowing about in London. Whether it’s a pop-up residency, a one-off dinner, or something only available one night of the week, these are the capital’s elusive and occasional restaurants worth knowing about before they’re gone.Read More
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Coco Kwok’s cooking — and documenting of that cooking under @newgatestudio Instagram handle — is a gentle kind of mesmeric. Clams bob in their water, with a sandcastle of anchovy seasoning; placid pies recall time at St. John; omelettes that lazily twist around each other like boomerangs. Sometimes find it at Meletius Coffee in Angel, where a menu of hot: grilled pork shoulder or velvet crab rice wrapped in lotus leaf; cold: cured sea bass in buttermilk, or master stock pig ears or tofu; and green: with cured beef fat dripping, lemon, and chicory reads and eats beautifully. Other times, DM for takeaway via Instagram.
All Kaps Pizza @ Papo’s Bagels
London has seen much violence against America’s regional pizza vernacular — just ask anyone who has ever been lured in by the promise of “Detroit-style” anywhere in the city and run away crying afterwards. But All Kaps is a pleasing reversal to that trend, where Mid-Atlantic via Sicily tomato pie is puffed and pillowy, and the thinner crust slices pass the bend test. Best of all, the riffy, improvisational whole pizzas, currently inflected with the CPK vibe of teriyaki chicken, are done with aplomb.
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Suba Bakery @ Binch
Popping up between Dalston Junction and Hackney Central, Suba specialises in West African baking. Its arrival at Binch follows many successful weekends at markets around Hackney, particularly Chatsworth Road, with founder Pa Modou serving up tapalapa bread, caraway buns, and soft, stretchy agege loaves.
Charlene Liu and Liu Qian specialise in bowls of xiǎomiàn in broths heavy with Sichuan peppercorn, garlic, soy, sesame paste, ginger, and a signature chilli oil. Minced pork, yellow peas, and water spinach are typical toppings, with the dish traditionally eaten for breakfast in Chongqing; glass noodles made from sweet potato starch are also available for a slippy, chewier textural alternative.