Welcome to Eater London’s weekly updated guide to all the temporary food worth knowing about in London. Whether it’s a pop-up residency, a one-off dinner, or something only available one night of the week, these are the capital’s elusive and occasional restaurants worth knowing about before they’re gone.Read More
London’s Best Restaurant Pop-Ups Right Now
All the pop-up adaptations and chef-at-home specialists the city needs to know about
Black Eats LDN Hackney Market
The latest in a summer program of event collaborations with Bohemia Place, Jackson Mclarty’s Black Eats LDN is reprising its weekend markets, putting the spotlight on Black-owned food traders from across the city. While this edition is daytime, keep an eye out for Friday night events from now through September.
Ling Ling’s @ The Gun
British-Chinese chef Jenny Phung’s residency at Hackney pub The Gun was a hit in 2021, and it’s resuming for the new year Wednesday — Sunday. While many dishes lean on Phung’s experiences growing up with Cantonese and Sichuan cuisine, others take a more roving approach and are inspired by travels to Japan and South Korea, refracted through modern London cooking. Expect Sichuan chicken wings; gochujang watermelon with feta; and on Sundays, some inventive roasts.
Coco Kwok’s cooking — and documenting of that cooking under @newgatestudio Instagram handle — is a gentle kind of mesmeric. Clams bob in their water, with a sandcastle of anchovy seasoning; placid pies recall time at St. John; omelettes that lazily twist around each other like boomerangs. Sometimes find it at Meletius Coffee in Angel, where a menu of hot: grilled pork shoulder or velvet crab rice wrapped in lotus leaf; cold: cured sea bass in buttermilk, or master stock pig ears or tofu; and green: with cured beef fat dripping, lemon, and chicory reads and eats beautifully. Other times, DM for takeaway via Instagram.
Koya Guest Udon Series @ Koya Ko Hackney
Koya’s mail-order udon was a COVID-19 hit, especially when the restaurant invited London chefs it admired to make bowls of their own. It’s reprising the series in person at Koya Ko in London Fields, with the likes of Cafe Cecilia’s Max Rocha; Sessions Arts Club’s Florence Knight; and Ombra’s MItshel Ibrahim putting together combinations reflective of their own culinary practice.
Happy Endings @ Pavilion Cafe Victoria Park
Lauded soft serve and ice cream purveyor Happy Endings has opened a kiosk in Victoria Park until the end of summer, running Thursday — Sunday. Expect two-tone swirls in cones or cups, alongside a range of ice cream sandwiches.
Liu Xiaomian Marylebone
Charlene Liu and Liu Qian specialise in bowls of xiǎomiàn in broths heavy with Sichuan peppercorn, garlic, soy, sesame paste, ginger, and a signature chilli oil. Minced pork, yellow peas, and water spinach are typical toppings, with the dish traditionally eaten for breakfast in Chongqing; glass noodles made from sweet potato starch are also available for a slippy, chewier textural alternative.
Spasia Dinkovski’s hypnotising spirals of burnished pastry don’t just look like what they are — börek from the gods — but the rings on a tree trunk, showing the ancestral traditions that she so lovingly details alongside the pies themselves on Instagram. Check the website for delivery dates across London, which are usually on Fridays.
Darjeeling Express @ The Pembroke
After leaving Covent Garden, and before opening in a new location, Asma Khan’s outstanding Darjeeling Express will pop up in west London, with reservations available until the end of November.
Passa Passa @ Tola
Chef Zae Millen takes over Noodle Neighbour at Tola on Peckham High Street with a range of Afro-Caribbean dishes, served Tuesday — Saturday. Snackable small plates like suya skewers, saltfish fritters with plantain ketchup, and cured halibut with scoth bonnet chilli might precede a generous prawn taco platter, or flat iron steak with curried delica pumpkin and green sauce.
All Kaps Pizza @ Papo’s Bagels
London has seen much violence against America’s regional pizza vernacular — just ask anyone who has ever been lured in by the promise of “Detroit-style” anywhere in the city and run away crying afterwards. But All Kaps is a pleasing reversal to that trend, where Mid-Atlantic via Sicily tomato pie is puffed and pillowy, and the thinner crust slices pass the bend test. Best of all, the riffy, improvisational whole pizzas, currently inflected with the CPK vibe of teriyaki chicken, are done with aplomb.
The New Old World @ 180 Studio
The New Old World, a two-day European wine fair, hosted by Newcomer Wines is more than an invitation to drink wine all day. Think a coming together of a community — of growers, professionals, and consumers — that celebrates wine and its makers, plus a seminar that pushes beyond the limitations of the wine world. Think, drink, and be merry.