The name of this North London establishment may suggest Arabian Nights themed revelry but Aladin Kababish is truly Pakistani at heart. Aladin excels in the unhurried preparation of haleem, a dish that is renowned for its labour intensive preparation involving hours of slow cooking and pounding lentils, wheat, barley and lamb in a circular motion till they form glutinous strands. Another star attraction is nihaari, a lamb shank curry almost velvety in texture which is slowly cooked overnight for the connective tissue to melt down completely. Garnished with coriander, thin shards of ginger, and green chillies, it used to be prescribed as a cure for common colds in the 19th century due its throat and nasal passages clearing properties. The dish’s name is derived from the Arabic word nahaar, or daytime, which alludes to the fact that it’s traditionally eaten for breakfast. Often served with spoonfuls of brain and marrow (for extra fortification), nihaari is notorious for running out by noon in dedicated nihaari houses in Pakistan but at Aladin Kababish it can be enjoyed all day long. (No alcohol.)

On a rainy Sunday morning, Al Kareem Sweets and Bakers heaves with ravenous diners jostling for space and attention in the tiny seating area. Conversations spark between strangers sharing tables who alternate between Urdu and Punjabi to express their views, variously, on the state of economic affairs in the motherland or bemoan the Pakistan cricket team’s dismal recent performance. Essentially a mithai shop serving a variety of sweetmeats, pastries, and packaged snacks; on Sundays, only Al Kareem serves two varieties of breakfast platters that have people queuing outside, even in inclement weather: halwa puri and chana pathoora. Opt for the halwa puri platter and witness, live, the action of puri preparation on a meticulously arranged assembly line. Balls of kneaded flour are rolled out, slapped between the hands to be shaped into discs and then spun into in a bubbling cauldron of oil for a few seconds before they emerge expanded balloon-like. Puris are served alongside stewed potatoes with a liberal sprinkling of nigella seeds, masala chickpeas, pickled onions, and moist semolina halwa with a marigold hue. Finish off with a salty pink Kashmiri chai topped with crushed pistachios. (No alcohol.)

There is a steady inflow of families to Lahore Nihari following Friday prayers with men returning from the local mosque accompanied by their wives and children. It is easy to see why this restaurant is such a magnet for the local community: In addition to the nihari which is excellent, the menu shines a light on lesser known Pakistani fare such as bhindi gosht (lamb cooked with okra) and aloo qeema (minced lamb and potato). Every Pakistani household prepares a version of these in their kitchens but having to compete with showstoppers like karahis, qormas, and tikkas, these humble dishes are rare on restaurant menus. It’s difficult to go wrong with aloo qeema — the quintessential comfort food combining diced potatoes with minced lamb in a reduction of tomatoes heady with notes of cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, and black pepper. (No alcohol.)

Tayyabs might be home to one of East London’s longest queues but all for good reason — it’s set the standard for Punjabi cuisine since it first opened its doors in 1972. Come for the chef’s special, chicken tikka masala, lamb chops and lamb-stuffed keema naan, cool down with London’s best mango lassi and Kheer, a rich milky rice pudding. The energy’s not unlike a street bazaar: heaving. Given it’s likely one will be barely able to hear their fellow diners, it’s also the perfect pit-stop to people-watch. It’s well worth booking a spot in advance though or prepare to wait a while come the weekend.

Nearby Tayabbs might get all the East End glory but avoid Whitechapel’s longest queues for its best-kept secret. Feast on generous portions of its famed mixed grill — sizzling lamb chops, chicken tikka and seekh kebabs — and even better karahi gosht, as Bollywood music plays in the background. With a diverse veg offering (the chilli paneer tikka is a stand-out) and speedy service to boot, it’s not hard to see why Needo Grill was awarded east London’s best Pakistani restaurant last December. 

Established by mother-daughter duo Nabeela Muqadiss and Saima Thompson in 2015, Masala Wala Café serves home-style Punjabi cooking with a focus on seasonality and simplicity. The menu, which changes changes every month, spotlights vegan and vegetarian dishes (in addition to a lamb and chicken dish) such as kuddu channa (pumpkin and chickpeas cooked with cumin), saag shakurkundi (spinach and sweet potato), and gobi ki sabzi (cauliflower, sweetcorn, and kale cooked with mustard seeds). The claim of home-cooked food is a misnomer in many food establishments but not here. The dining experience at Masala Wala mirrors the warm hospitality one might receive when turning up at a Pakistani household unannounced. The hearty fare is best washed down with the bespoke Pakistani Pale Ale prepared by Brockley Brewery.

Taste of Pakistan is a misleading name for a restaurant that specialises in cuisine from the Northwest region of the country. No matter, this is where to have a transcendental experience, feasting on copious amounts of chapli kabab and charsi karahi — a dish of tender cubes of lamb, simmered in a tomato reduction lacquered with fat. The affable and welcoming owner clearly takes pride in his cooking and advises ordering medium spicy rather than spicy so that the flavour of the meat and fat comes through. (No alcohol.)

Namak Mandi is one of the few restaurants in London to specialise in Pashtun cuisine from Northwest Pakistan, a region that borders Afghanistan. The cuisine, which is heavily influenced by Afghan and Central Asian culinary traditions, is characterised by the use of limited ingredients, delicate spicing, and a focus on fatty meats that are important fuel in the region’s harsh winters. Flattened beef chapli kababs the size of frisbees are speckled with coriander seeds, red chilli flakes, and tomatoes — fried on high heat to ensure a charred and crispy exterior while maintaining a juicy interior. The cooked-to-order karahis with tender pieces of lamb or chicken simmered in tomatoes, salt, pepper, and ginger are legendary as is the kabuli pulao with lamb shank falling off the bone buried under a dome of rice. Reserve the upstairs communal seating section and take a group of four to six friends to order most of the menu. Enjoy the spread with oblong naans that tower over. (No alcohol.)

Karachi Cuisine prides itself in having chefs and staff that all hail from Karachi, Pakistan’s largest metropolis. It comes as no surprise that it is one of the few Pakistani restaurants in London serving two of the city’s specialties: kat a kat and maghaz masala. Both dishes epitomise Pakistan’s nose to tail cooking tradition, which has existed for decades, long before the term entered the mainstream discourse in Europe and North America. Maghaz masala, buttery in consistency, are blanched lamb brains simmered in a wok with tomatoes, onions, green peppers, and ginger. Kat a kat refers to the sound of two sharp blades that hit the griddle as the chef dexterously dices and minces a medley of brain, liver, kidneys, and heart and tosses it with onions, tomatoes and spices including aniseed, mace and cumin. (BYOB.)