Plenty of restaurateurs claim to farm and forage, but the Gladwin brothers actually do, bringing almost everything they use here from their Sussex fields. The cooking is more thoughtful than Rabbit’s jolly-japes vibe might suggest: witness the mushroom-marmite eclair with confit yolk, and the cured chalk stream trout with beetroot, horseradish and buttermilk cream and puffed wild rice. There’s a great weekday set lunch — two courses for £14.50, three for £19 — and an absurdly well-priced Saturday brunch. Swerve the ‘loosener’ served in a welly; stick to a build-your-own Bloody Mary and the oak-smoked pink fir hash with coriander yoghurt, pickled shallots and a fried egg.

Reliably swish and seasonal, this bastion of Gallic cookery is massively popular with well-heeled locals. For just £35 a head anyone can join them for a weekday lunch to remember: start with duck-egg tart, follow it with boudin of corn-fed chicken, girolles and spätzle, and finish with the plum sorbet and freshly baked madeleines. The chips, at £4 and served with béarnaise for dunking, are in a league of their own.

The SW3-based member of Russell Norman’s Italian family may be small, but it has an outsize personality. Tucked at the back of Duke of York Square, it’s handy for the Saatchi Gallery, but really comes into its own after dark, when the candles-only policy renders even the dullest date mysterious and fascinating. Grab seats at the bar and feast on fritto misto, potato and parmesan crocchette and a classic pizette or two.

Another Pavilion Road high-point, Bread Ahead’s Chelsea bakery has plenty of outdoor seating and the same best-in-show selection of pastries, doughnuts and cakes as Borough Market and Beak Street — all available to nibble on site. Buttery Breton kouign amann are present and correct, and there’s a range of substantial lunchtime sandwiches too.

Santa Maria had a moment in the spotlight earlier this year when a national restaurant critic gave its Fitzrovia branch a measly two stars for the crime of not being Pizza Hut. The restaurant’s response was a masterclass in how to deal with an unmerited stinker of a review — and since then it’s been business as usual, with loyal customers turning out for Santa Rosas (tomato sauce, smoked mozzarella, salame Napoli, roasted aubergines) and Campari spritzes. Just off the New King’s Road, the Waterford Road pizzeria benefits from the group’s devoted Neapolitan owners, who continually refine and tweak the menu, which now includes four fully vegan options. Desserts include the holy trinity of tiramisu, many-layered sfogliatella and pistachio-encrusted canolo Siciliano.

The third and newest outpost of the much-loved bakehouse — the others are in Bloomsbury and Chiswick — sticks to the tried and tested formula. Outrageously rich chocolate brownies, sourdough cakes — the vegan banana loaf is especially good — single-farm coffee and “stonerolled” tea from supplier par excellence Postcard. Get there early for a Berber omelette batbout with harissa, and a fresh lemonade. Takeaway only currently.

Ice Cream Union’s small but efficient Chelsea parlour—more of a hatch, really—is just off the Sloane Square end of the Kings Road. There are no bells or whistles: just a thoughtful, exciting selection of ice creams and sorbets, ranging from Breton caramel and banana split to cornflake, spiced Delica pumpkin and vegan chilli chocolate. There’s no seating, but plenty of space to eat while standing, with 0.5- and 1-litre tubs available for takeaway or delivery. 

The smallest of the mini-chain of espresso bars is tucked away between two shops about half way down the King’s Road. Taking its cue from Copenhagen, the handsome tiled space dispenses open-faced rye sandwiches and pastries alongside its super-strong, almost boozy-tasting cold brew. Of course, there are the excellent filter- and espresso-based beverages — right now the beans are from east London-based Dark Arts. There’s very limited counter seating in a mostly takeaway operation.