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Cod’s roe and cruditees at Fergus Henderson’s St. John Bread and Wine in Spitalfields
Cod’s roe and cruditees at St. John Bread and Wine in Spitalfields
Michaël Protin/Eater London

Where to Eat in Shoreditch

St. John, shengjianbao, Michelin stars, pizza, Cantonese roast meats, lemon meringue pie — and much more

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Cod’s roe and cruditees at St. John Bread and Wine in Spitalfields
| Michaël Protin/Eater London

Shoreditch is east London’s Soho — and that means it’s both a creative nerve-centre, trendy-but-increasingly-commercial, and a hotbed of exciting and varied restaurants. Shoreditch, which here is defined as running a little way down Old Street, a little way up Kingsland Road, and across to Spitalfields, includes, variously, some of the city’s most interesting modern British restaurants, a brilliant, comparatively unknown pastificio, one of London’s best American-style barbecue restaurants, the city’s best bánh mì shop and, now, four Michelin-starred restaurants. Plus, much more. It’s got almost everything. Here’s 24 of the best.

London’s restaurants, pubs, cafes, and bars reopen for full indoor service from 19 July, when the government lifts all legal coronavirus restrictions. Some venues will continue to practice social distancing and masking: Customers can check with individual venues to determine their availability and Covid-secure measures before deciding to visit.

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Note: Restaurants on this map are listed geographically.

1. The Clove Club

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Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old St
London, Greater London
(+44) 207-7296496
Visit Website

High-end but not fusty; low-key but impeccable service. One of Britain's most talented chefs, Isaac McHale has put in time at high-profile spots Noma and The Ledbury. Stunning, meandering tasting menus — chiefly British — with flashes of flavour from such cuisines as India and Japan in the dining room.

2. Kêu Banh Mi Deli

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332 Old St
Shoreditch, Greater London
(+44) 207-7391164
Visit Website

Bánh mì is a deceptively difficult dish to nail. Where many would-be bánh mì makers try, most fall flat. But Kêu delivers with an assortment of crisp Vietnamese baguettes, steamed buns and noodle and rice bowls. Scattered around London, the delis are the newest addition to the Vietnamese Kitchen portfolio. The Shoreditch locale is bright, airy and punctuated with wood finishes. In a rush, grab the bánh mì heo quay, which packs in crisp, wobbly pork belly. And a tip: season your baguette with extra Maggi ‘Arome’ liquid, provided in bottles for free.

Kêu Official

3. Cây Tre

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301 Old St
Shoreditch, Greater London
(+44) 207-7298662
Visit Website

Also in the Vietnamese Kitchen family that runs Kêu, Cây Tre specialises in Vietnamese cuisine but concentrates more on the traditional dining experience than its street food-focused sibling. The menu features items meant for feasting in groups as much as savouring alone, making it ideal for delivery and takeout. Try the beef phở, which has an 18-hour prep time; it’s hard to go wrong with a starter of salt-and-pepper squid, too.

Cay Tre Official

4. Franco's Take Away

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67 Rivington St
London EC2A 3AY, UK
020 7739 0231

Shoreditch is London’s trendiest neighbourhood. Franco’s is a good old-fashioned greasy spoon and sandwich shop that does a job in bringing even the most fashionable hypebeasts back down to earth, and never stopped doing so throughout lockdown. Go early doors for a bacon sandwich, Full English, or just a slice of toast and cup of tea. At lunchtime, make a beeline for one of its good value and extremely popular protein-mayo-bonded sandwiches. It’s called takeaway, so, catch the drift.

Franco’s
Adam Coghlan/Eater London

5. Leila's

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Leila's Shop, 17 Calvert Ave
London E2 7JP, UK

Leila’s straddles two units on Calvert Avenue: one, is a grocery shop; the second a cafe, which serves breakfast and lunch. It is owned and operated by Leila McAlister — who belongs to the same obsessively seasonal school as all of those alumni from St John and the River Cafe. Currently, it’s two units of shop. offering dishes based on comfort and a wide range of larder and produce staples. Use the live stock list to see what’s up.

Some of the finest seasonal produce can be found at Leila’s on Calvert Avenue
Leila’s resembles the best of home kitchens
labmi/Instagram

6. Blacklock Shoreditch

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30 Rivington St
London EC2A 3DZ, UK

Gordon Ker’s homage to quality British meat finds its third expression on Shoreditch’s Rivington Street, and the quality across the menu is extremely high. An exquisite rendering of the classic steak sandwich packs aged hanger, yielding bone marrow and a piquant horseradish sauce into a decent ciabatta — spoonfuls of bracing green sauce are a fine accessory. Elsewhere, steak is juicy, beefy, and pretty unimpeachable, with shattering chips, superb gravy, and the usual range of chops skinny and hefty rounding things off.

London’s best Sunday roasts: Blacklock steakhouse’s spread of steaks, lamb chops and pork chops Blacklock [Official Photo]

7. Rochelle Canteen

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Rochelle School
London, Greater London
(+44) 207-7295677
Visit Website

Rochelle Canteen has been a reliable purveyor of seasonal loveliness since its opening in 2006. While the restaurant may be a little difficult to find for any newcomers to the area (it’s located in the old bike shed of the Rochelle School), the fare is worth the trek, especially with the lure of a garden where the air is often heavy with the scent of fig leaves. Mostly without pretence or fuss, Rochelle Canteen offers succinct menus based on top produce, and a newly introduced canopy offers outdoor dining sheltered from the rain.

Adam Coghlan

8. Gloria

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54-56 Great Eastern St
London EC2A 3QR, UK

Gloria is a lot: “Youporn” pizza (good base); cacio e pepe served out of a wheel of cheese; a lemon meringue pie bigger than necessary. What Parisian restaurant group Big Mamma’s London debut captures is a sense of hedonistic maximalism — to serve all of these things without irony or undercutting, and to revel in the fun that comes with them. Its bright yellow exterior and surfeit of foliage in the heart of London’s most normcore-cool neighbourhood marks it out even further. Now also home to Napoli Gang, a delivery-only offering.

Gloria Italian restaurant from Big Mamma in Shoreditch: lemon meringue pie on the menu for dessert

9. Burro e Salvia

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52 Redchurch St
London, Greater London
(+44) 207-7394429
Visit Website

Burro e Salvia is one of London’s top spots for fresh pasta and exists comparatively under the radar. Diners could do much worse than order the signature beef, pork and spinach ‘agnolotti cavour’, or, for that matter, any of the daily-changing options, including a number of vegetarian dishes like cappellacci with aubergine, ricotta and tomato. It’s one of Shoreditch’s best options for a quick lunch and the off-menu lasagne is one of the neighbourhood’s best kept secrets.

Agnolotti Cavour
Adam Coghlan

10. Casa do Frango Shoreditch

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2 King John Ct, Shoreditch
London EC2A 3EZ, UK

The piri piri chicken specialists’ second fully fledged restaurant is an instant improvement to Shoreditch’s lunchtime options, with properly grilled chicken accessorised by simple things done smartly: quality chips; a fine tomato, pepper, and onion salad heavily perfumed with oregano. Leave Nando’s comparisons at home and don’t think about the Algarve; just relax into a restaurant comfortable in its own skin.

Piri piri chicken at Casa do Frango in Flat Iron Square, reviewed by Observer restaurant critic Jay Rayner Casa do Frango [Official Photo]

11. BRAT

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4 Redchurch St
London E1 6JL, UK

Brat is named after the old English colloquialism for turbot. Here, grill cooking is the focus. Seafood (including whole turbot), sourced from Cornwall; lamb from Wales; beef from the English south west; and seasonal fruit and vegetables from all over, is grilled or cooked in a purpose-built wood oven. Parry differentiates himself slightly from other grill restaurants, aiming to emulate methods used in the north of Spain — using fire to cook his range of ingredients slowly. Received its first Michelin star — six months in — October 2018, and currently has an outdoor sibling at Climpson’s Arch in London Fields until autumn 2021.

best_sherry_london_brat_restaurant_shoreditch
Brat is a wood-fired Spanish-inspired restaurant and wine bar by Tomos Parry
Ben McMahon/benjaminmcmahon.com

12. Smoking Goat Shoreditch

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64 Shoreditch High St
London E1 6JJ, UK

Ben Chapman has taken the attention to detail, ferocious sourcing and sense of freedom that makes Kiln in Soho such a hit and transported it east in service of Thai drinking food. Barbecued Tamworth pork skewers and lardo-fried rice are surefire hits; a new, pared-back outdoor menu places even greater focus on its produce, honing the grilling of red mullet, pork chops, and sometimes mutton to be served unadorned alongside fragrant, prickly nahm jim and smoked chilli jaew.

Benjamin McMahon

13. Oklava

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74 Luke St
London EC2A 4PY, UK

Selin Kiazim’s first solo restaurant is a paean to the chef’s Turkish-Cypriot heritage. The small dining room and bar is organised around an open kitchen which uses a wood oven and tiered grill to prepare some of the most ambitious modern Turkish food in the city. Pide (flatbreads) — marinated octopus with ricotta; or a classic lamb lahmacun — are served with a crisp, piquant pomegranate-dressed red cabbage salad with pickles; the regularly-changing grilled meats might include glazed lamb breast or half chicken served with preserved lemon and greens. Despite being in the middle of Shoreditch, Oklava has the warm atmosphere of a discreet neighbourhood restaurant, with a few bar stools and window ledge tables outside for the warmer evenings.

Oklava [Official Photo]

14. Leroy

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18 Phipp St
London EC2A 4NU, UK

Leroy is a wine bar and Michelin-starred restaurant from the team — Ed Thaw and Jack Lewens — who closed Michelin-starred Ellory in Hackney in March 2018. It is inspired by the Parisian “caves” (restaurant wine annexes) where former head chef Sam Kamienko cooked before coming to London. Like many of the capital’s restaurants in this formula, it’s adopted a set menu on the back of lockdown, with the same French-leaning, delicate dishes nodding to native British ingredients, like guinea fowl with girolles or steamed plaice with mussels, white wine, and samphire.

Michelin-Starred Shoreditch restaurant Leroy is scrapping the discretionary service charge when it reopens after the coronavirus lockdown
Quail skewers at Leroy in Shoreditch
Leroy [Official Photo]

15. Smokestak

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35 Sclater St
London, Greater London
(+44) 203-8731733
Visit Website

Smokestak is one of a very small number of temples to barbecue in London. From the grungy, industrial, almost charred look of the countertops and walls to a menu replete with different British meats, fish and vegetables, the majority of which are smoked with great skill. Between the brisket buns, tender brisket, crispy pork cheek and thick-cut pork ribs: Smokestak is fine Southern-style barbecue restaurant with a strong British accent.

Adam Coghlan

16. Lyle's

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56 Shoreditch High St
London, Greater London
(+44) 203-0115911
Visit Website

This restaurant is a marriage of its co-owner James Lowe's British heritage (St. John Bread and Wine) and his many stints across the globe, including at Noma. Lowe is a gifted chef and one of London's foremost proponents of the quality of British produce; his relaxed brand of ‘fine dining’ regularly celebrates mutton, game and goat, as well as wood fire-cooked seafood and seasonal English vegetables. Lyle’s is one of London’s very best modern restaurants, one of London’s best Michelin-starred restaurants, and, arguably, the best restaurant in Shoreditch.

17. Padella Shoreditch

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1 Phipp St, Shoreditch
London EC2A 4PS, UK

It’s taken a long time for chef Tim Siadatan and frontman Jordan Frieda to do what a couple of years ago seemed like the inevitable: to capitalise on the success of one of London’s most popular restaurants and arguably the pastificio which sparked London’s recent love affair with Italian fast food. In Shoreditch, the duo have a bigger, more beautiful site as well as a bakery, and the early signs suggest that pastas — such as the trademark beef shin ragu pappardelle and the pici cacio e pepe — as well as seasonal salads and sides will be deserving of renewed interest.

Padella Pasta at Borough Market will open a new pasta restaurant in Shoreditch Ola Smit/Eater London

18. St. John Bread and Wine

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94-96 Commercial St
Spitalfields, Greater London
(+44) 203-3018069
Visit Website

While the original St. John is rightly regarded as the most important British restaurant in a generation, Bread & Wine, the sister site in Spitalfields, is a better and more interesting restaurant today. If food were a religion, then this would be its church. Indeed, to many, Ferguson Henderson is God. Welsh rarebit, bone marrow and parsley salad, foie gras on toast, mussels with cider, devilled kidneys and half a dozen madeleines; a whole roast suckling pig?

Welsh rarebit, liver toast, and madeleines at St. John Bread and Wine

19. Old Spitalfields Market

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16 Commercial St, Shadwell
London E1 6EW, UK

One of London’s oldest markets includes dozens of food options. Here’s the pick of them
Burgers: Bleecker Burger
Dumplings and noodles: Dumpling Shack and Fen Noodles
Reubens: Monty’s [order online nationally]
Pizza: Sud Italia
Sausage rolls: The Butchery
Doughnuts: Crosstown
Coffee: Climpson’s
Bubble tea: Yi Fang

Sheng jian bao at Dumpling Shack Old Spitalfields Market James Hansen/Eater London

20. Bubala

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65 Commercial St, Shadwell
London E1 6BD, UK

The New Israeli debut restaurant from Marc Summers, (formerly Berber & Q) and Helen Graham, (of The PalomarThe Barbary, and The Good Egg) is vegetarian without shouting about it. Indeed, in service of modern tastes but also in recognition of culinary tradition, plenty of the menu is vegan, too. Execution here is first-rate: in a pumpkin dip with harissa, preserved lemon, and verdant olive oil, in hummus lifted by brown butter, in crisp confit potato latkes with toum and Aleppo chilli; and ful medames enlivened with lovage pesto, yoghurt, and homemade malawach (flatbread with the texture of good pastry).

Hummus at Bubala in Shoreditch Bubala [Official Photo]

21. Three Uncles

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12 Devonshire Row
London EC2M 4RH, UK

Just across from Liverpool Street station’s main entrance, down a side street, the Shoreditch-City borders has a top-tier Cantonese roast meat takeaway specialist. Three Uncles — owned by friends, Cheong Yew, Put Sing Tsang, and Mo Kwok — is one of the best-value new takeaway lunches in the area. A small number of tables and a few counter spots are in high demand for delicately balanced char siu, roast duck, and pork belly. All are served with steamed bok choy and either rice or fine lo mein (egg noodles). Make sure to judiciously apply the deeply savoury and gently smoky house chilli oil.

Cantonese roast meats restaurant Three Uncles will open near Liverpool Street after problems at Nag’s Head Market Three Uncles [Official Photo]

22. Xi'an Biang Biang Noodles

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62 Wentworth St
London E1 7AL, UK

A sort-of sister site to London’s outstanding Xi’an Chinese restaurant in Highbury, Xi’an Impression. Co-owner Zhang Chao, along with Sichuanese head chef Li Liang, has brought to Spitalfields Xi’an’s regional specialities: Wide hand-pulled “belt” noodles, covered in an umami-rich Sichuan peppercorn, soya-based sauces, and chilli oil — served with Chinese greens; braised beef; or cumin-spiced lamb. Elsewhere there are refreshing cold skin noodles, with sesame or chilli dressings; smacked cucumber salads; boneless poached chicken in special sauce, and wonton and Qishan soups.

23. Jolene Redchurch Street

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67 Redchurch St
London E2 7DJ, UK

Jolene finally brings what Shoreditch’s Redchurch Street has been crying out for all along — a very, very decent bakery. A diminuitive takeaway space with orange-red hues and a bench for perching, it offers breads, laminated pastries, and sweets and savouries made with rough-hewn care.

Cakes at Jolene, London’s coolest bakery
Financiers at Jolene’s original site on Newington Green
Samuel Ashton/Eater London

24. Origin Coffee

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65 Charlotte Rd
London EC2A 3PE, UK

Southwestern imports Origin have staged something of a London takeover since opening a flagship store on Charlotte Road in 2014, opening in Southwark and at the British Library — a display of specialty’s mainstream breakthrough. The offering — all roasted in Cornwall and now selected by two-time U.K. coffee tasting champion Freda Yuan — is perhaps one of the most progressive in the city. ‘Session coffees’: high yield, steady harvests with approachable flavour profiles, are set against monthly features, often focussed on a specific process, varietal, or, inevitably, origin. The mural behind the bar demands close attention.

A flat white coffee in a white ceramic cup on a wood background Jon Attenborough

1. The Clove Club

Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old St, London, Greater London

High-end but not fusty; low-key but impeccable service. One of Britain's most talented chefs, Isaac McHale has put in time at high-profile spots Noma and The Ledbury. Stunning, meandering tasting menus — chiefly British — with flashes of flavour from such cuisines as India and Japan in the dining room.

Shoreditch Town Hall, 380 Old St
London, Greater London

2. Kêu Banh Mi Deli

332 Old St, Shoreditch, Greater London
Kêu Official

Bánh mì is a deceptively difficult dish to nail. Where many would-be bánh mì makers try, most fall flat. But Kêu delivers with an assortment of crisp Vietnamese baguettes, steamed buns and noodle and rice bowls. Scattered around London, the delis are the newest addition to the Vietnamese Kitchen portfolio. The Shoreditch locale is bright, airy and punctuated with wood finishes. In a rush, grab the bánh mì heo quay, which packs in crisp, wobbly pork belly. And a tip: season your baguette with extra Maggi ‘Arome’ liquid, provided in bottles for free.

332 Old St
Shoreditch, Greater London

3. Cây Tre

301 Old St, Shoreditch, Greater London
Cay Tre Official

Also in the Vietnamese Kitchen family that runs Kêu, Cây Tre specialises in Vietnamese cuisine but concentrates more on the traditional dining experience than its street food-focused sibling. The menu features items meant for feasting in groups as much as savouring alone, making it ideal for delivery and takeout. Try the beef phở, which has an 18-hour prep time; it’s hard to go wrong with a starter of salt-and-pepper squid, too.

301 Old St
Shoreditch, Greater London

4. Franco's Take Away

67 Rivington St, London EC2A 3AY, UK
Franco’s
Adam Coghlan/Eater London

Shoreditch is London’s trendiest neighbourhood. Franco’s is a good old-fashioned greasy spoon and sandwich shop that does a job in bringing even the most fashionable hypebeasts back down to earth, and never stopped doing so throughout lockdown. Go early doors for a bacon sandwich, Full English, or just a slice of toast and cup of tea. At lunchtime, make a beeline for one of its good value and extremely popular protein-mayo-bonded sandwiches. It’s called takeaway, so, catch the drift.

67 Rivington St
London EC2A 3AY, UK

5. Leila's

Leila's Shop, 17 Calvert Ave, London E2 7JP, UK
Some of the finest seasonal produce can be found at Leila’s on Calvert Avenue
Leila’s resembles the best of home kitchens
labmi/Instagram

Leila’s straddles two units on Calvert Avenue: one, is a grocery shop; the second a cafe, which serves breakfast and lunch. It is owned and operated by Leila McAlister — who belongs to the same obsessively seasonal school as all of those alumni from St John and the River Cafe. Currently, it’s two units of shop. offering dishes based on comfort and a wide range of larder and produce staples. Use the live stock list to see what’s up.

Leila's Shop, 17 Calvert Ave
London E2 7JP, UK

6. Blacklock Shoreditch

30 Rivington St, London EC2A 3DZ, UK
London’s best Sunday roasts: Blacklock steakhouse’s spread of steaks, lamb chops and pork chops Blacklock [Official Photo]

Gordon Ker’s homage to quality British meat finds its third expression on Shoreditch’s Rivington Street, and the quality across the menu is extremely high. An exquisite rendering of the classic steak sandwich packs aged hanger, yielding bone marrow and a piquant horseradish sauce into a decent ciabatta — spoonfuls of bracing green sauce are a fine accessory. Elsewhere, steak is juicy, beefy, and pretty unimpeachable, with shattering chips, superb gravy, and the usual range of chops skinny and hefty rounding things off.

30 Rivington St
London EC2A 3DZ, UK

7. Rochelle Canteen

Rochelle School, London, Greater London
Adam Coghlan

Rochelle Canteen has been a reliable purveyor of seasonal loveliness since its opening in 2006. While the restaurant may be a little difficult to find for any newcomers to the area (it’s located in the old bike shed of the Rochelle School), the fare is worth the trek, especially with the lure of a garden where the air is often heavy with the scent of fig leaves. Mostly without pretence or fuss, Rochelle Canteen offers succinct menus based on top produce, and a newly introduced canopy offers outdoor dining sheltered from the rain.

Rochelle School
London, Greater London

8. Gloria

54-56 Great Eastern St, London EC2A 3QR, UK
Gloria Italian restaurant from Big Mamma in Shoreditch: lemon meringue pie on the menu for dessert

Gloria is a lot: “Youporn” pizza (good base); cacio e pepe served out of a wheel of cheese; a lemon meringue pie bigger than necessary. What Parisian restaurant group Big Mamma’s London debut captures is a sense of hedonistic maximalism — to serve all of these things without irony or undercutting, and to revel in the fun that comes with them. Its bright yellow exterior and surfeit of foliage in the heart of London’s most normcore-cool neighbourhood marks it out even further. Now also home to Napoli Gang, a delivery-only offering.

54-56 Great Eastern St
London EC2A 3QR, UK

9. Burro e Salvia

52 Redchurch St, London, Greater London
Agnolotti Cavour
Adam Coghlan

Burro e Salvia is one of London’s top spots for fresh pasta and exists comparatively under the radar. Diners could do much worse than order the signature beef, pork and spinach ‘agnolotti cavour’, or, for that matter, any of the daily-changing options, including a number of vegetarian dishes like cappellacci with aubergine, ricotta and tomato. It’s one of Shoreditch’s best options for a quick lunch and the off-menu lasagne is one of the neighbourhood’s best kept secrets.

52 Redchurch St
London, Greater London

10. Casa do Frango Shoreditch

2 King John Ct, Shoreditch, London EC2A 3EZ, UK
Piri piri chicken at Casa do Frango in Flat Iron Square, reviewed by Observer restaurant critic Jay Rayner Casa do Frango [Official Photo]

The piri piri chicken specialists’ second fully fledged restaurant is an instant improvement to Shoreditch’s lunchtime options, with properly grilled chicken accessorised by simple things done smartly: quality chips; a fine tomato, pepper, and onion salad heavily perfumed with oregano. Leave Nando’s comparisons at home and don’t think about the Algarve; just relax into a restaurant comfortable in its own skin.

2 King John Ct, Shoreditch
London EC2A 3EZ, UK

11. BRAT

4 Redchurch St, London E1 6JL, UK
best_sherry_london_brat_restaurant_shoreditch
Brat is a wood-fired Spanish-inspired restaurant and wine bar by Tomos Parry
Ben McMahon/benjaminmcmahon.com

Brat is named after the old English colloquialism for turbot. Here, grill cooking is the focus. Seafood (including whole turbot), sourced from Cornwall; lamb from Wales; beef from the English south west; and seasonal fruit and vegetables from all over, is grilled or cooked in a purpose-built wood oven. Parry differentiates himself slightly from other grill restaurants, aiming to emulate methods used in the north of Spain — using fire to cook his range of ingredients slowly. Received its first Michelin star — six months in — October 2018, and currently has an outdoor sibling at Climpson’s Arch in London Fields until autumn 2021.

4 Redchurch St
London E1 6JL, UK

12. Smoking Goat Shoreditch

64 Shoreditch High St, London E1 6JJ, UK
Benjamin McMahon

Ben Chapman has taken the attention to detail, ferocious sourcing and sense of freedom that makes Kiln in Soho such a hit and transported it east in service of Thai drinking food. Barbecued Tamworth pork skewers and lardo-fried rice are surefire hits; a new, pared-back outdoor menu places even greater focus on its produce, honing the grilling of red mullet, pork chops, and sometimes mutton to be served unadorned alongside fragrant, prickly nahm jim and smoked chilli jaew.

64 Shoreditch High St
London E1 6JJ, UK

13. Oklava

74 Luke St, London EC2A 4PY, UK
Oklava [Official Photo]

Selin Kiazim’s first solo restaurant is a paean to the chef’s Turkish-Cypriot heritage. The small dining room and bar is organised around an open kitchen which uses a wood oven and tiered grill to prepare some of the most ambitious modern Turkish food in the city. Pide (flatbreads) — marinated octopus with ricotta; or a classic lamb lahmacun — are served with a crisp, piquant pomegranate-dressed red cabbage salad with pickles; the regularly-changing grilled meats might include glazed lamb breast or half chicken served with preserved lemon and greens. Despite being in the middle of Shoreditch, Oklava has the warm atmosphere of a discreet neighbourhood restaurant, with a few bar stools and window ledge tables outside for the warmer evenings.

74 Luke St
London EC2A 4PY, UK

14. Leroy

18 Phipp St, London EC2A 4NU, UK
Michelin-Starred Shoreditch restaurant Leroy is scrapping the discretionary service charge when it reopens after the coronavirus lockdown
Quail skewers at Leroy in Shoreditch
Leroy [Official Photo]

Leroy is a wine bar and Michelin-starred restaurant from the team — Ed Thaw and Jack Lewens — who closed Michelin-starred Ellory in Hackney in March 2018. It is inspired by the Parisian “caves” (restaurant wine annexes) where former head chef Sam Kamienko cooked before coming to London. Like many of the capital’s restaurants in this formula, it’s adopted a set menu on the back of lockdown, with the same French-leaning, delicate dishes nodding to native British ingredients, like guinea fowl with girolles or steamed plaice with mussels, white wine, and samphire.

18 Phipp St
London EC2A 4NU, UK

15. Smokestak

35 Sclater St, London, Greater London
Adam Coghlan

Smokestak is one of a very small number of temples to barbecue in London. From the grungy, industrial, almost charred look of the countertops and walls to a menu replete with different British meats, fish and vegetables, the majority of which are smoked with great skill. Between the brisket buns, tender brisket, crispy pork cheek and thick-cut pork ribs: Smokestak is fine Southern-style barbecue restaurant with a strong British accent.

35 Sclater St
London, Greater London

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16. Lyle's

56 Shoreditch High St, London, Greater London

This restaurant is a marriage of its co-owner James Lowe's British heritage (St. John Bread and Wine) and his many stints across the globe, including at Noma. Lowe is a gifted chef and one of London's foremost proponents of the quality of British produce; his relaxed brand of ‘fine dining’ regularly celebrates mutton, game and goat, as well as wood fire-cooked seafood and seasonal English vegetables. Lyle’s is one of London’s very best modern restaurants, one of London’s best Michelin-starred restaurants, and, arguably, the best restaurant in Shoreditch.

56 Shoreditch High St
London, Greater London

17. Padella Shoreditch

1 Phipp St, Shoreditch, London EC2A 4PS, UK
Padella Pasta at Borough Market will open a new pasta restaurant in Shoreditch Ola Smit/Eater London

It’s taken a long time for chef Tim Siadatan and frontman Jordan Frieda to do what a couple of years ago seemed like the inevitable: to capitalise on the success of one of London’s most popular restaurants and arguably the pastificio which sparked London’s recent love affair with Italian fast food. In Shoreditch, the duo have a bigger, more beautiful site as well as a bakery, and the early signs suggest that pastas — such as the trademark beef shin ragu pappardelle and the pici cacio e pepe — as well as seasonal salads and sides will be deserving of renewed interest.

1 Phipp St, Shoreditch
London EC2A 4PS, UK

18. St. John Bread and Wine

94-96 Commercial St, Spitalfields, Greater London
Welsh rarebit, liver toast, and madeleines at St. John Bread and Wine

While the original St. John is rightly regarded as the most important British restaurant in a generation, Bread & Wine, the sister site in Spitalfields, is a better and more interesting restaurant today. If food were a religion, then this would be its church. Indeed, to many, Ferguson Henderson is God. Welsh rarebit, bone marrow and parsley salad, foie gras on toast, mussels with cider, devilled kidneys and half a dozen madeleines; a whole roast suckling pig?

94-96 Commercial St
Spitalfields, Greater London

19. Old Spitalfields Market

16 Commercial St, Shadwell, London E1 6EW, UK
Sheng jian bao at Dumpling Shack Old Spitalfields Market James Hansen/Eater London

One of London’s oldest markets includes dozens of food options. Here’s the pick of them
Burgers: Bleecker Burger
Dumplings and noodles: Dumpling Shack and Fen Noodles
Reubens: Monty’s [order online nationally]
Pizza: Sud Italia
Sausage rolls: The Butchery
Doughnuts: Crosstown
Coffee: Climpson’s
Bubble tea: Yi Fang

16 Commercial St, Shadwell
London E1 6EW, UK

20. Bubala

65 Commercial St, Shadwell, London E1 6BD, UK
Hummus at Bubala in Shoreditch Bubala [Official Photo]

The New Israeli debut restaurant from Marc Summers, (formerly Berber & Q) and Helen Graham, (of The PalomarThe Barbary, and The Good Egg) is vegetarian without shouting about it. Indeed, in service of modern tastes but also in recognition of culinary tradition, plenty of the menu is vegan, too. Execution here is first-rate: in a pumpkin dip with harissa, preserved lemon, and verdant olive oil, in hummus lifted by brown butter, in crisp confit potato latkes with toum and Aleppo chilli; and ful medames enlivened with lovage pesto, yoghurt, and homemade malawach (flatbread with the texture of good pastry).

65 Commercial St, Shadwell
London E1 6BD, UK

21. Three Uncles

12 Devonshire Row, London EC2M 4RH, UK