To understand the food of north London, first understand two roads: The A10 and the A105. The A10 is known by different pseudonyms at different stages in its life — starting in east London as Shoreditch High Street and Kingsland Road; moving north into the Stamford Hill of Jewish delicatessens; the High Road of Tottenham with its west African and Caribbean communities; Fore Street of Edmonton, pockmarked with palatial Turkish restaurants, and ending up as Hertford Road, full of savoury tantuni and sweet kunefe.
The A105, more or less, is better known as Green Lanes, and from Newington Green through Harringay, Palmers Green and Enfield it hosts a constant back and forth tussle between Turkish, Kurdish and Greek Cypriot idiosyncrasies, united by the love of charcoal. These two roads, and the ever lengthening roads that connect them almost define the entire north London food ecosystem — or, more precisely, the communities that live in parallel, tucked between north London’s constantly shifting layers.
Read More
Loading comments...