It’s been over a decade since London began its rise to the top table of global food capitals; it is only recently that its wine lists finally caught up. If the new wave of London restaurants that opened during the twenty-teens were characterised by youthful, exuberant openness to the new and exciting, it definitely took a while for a similar spirit to make its way into how the capital drinks.
Now, though, it is safe to say that London stands on the verge of a new era. Standards have risen across the board, ensuring that great wine can be found in places like pubs and cafes; lists are increasingly willing to embrace new regions and unconventional varietals; the natural wine debate is over, its final belligerents safely locked away in their personal echo chambers. More than anything, London finally seems to appreciate wine as something to be enjoyed, rather than tolerated as a restaurant’s last desperate attempt to gouge some margin out of its customers. Something to be enjoyed, moreover, as a living thing, something every bit as diverse and vital as the constellation of Londoners drinking it. Here are some of the best places to share and savour that liquid joy.
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