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Hector’s in De Beauvoir is one of London’s best new natural wine bars
Hector’s in De Beauvoir — one of London’s best new natural wine bars.
Charlie McKay

The Best Natural Wine Bars in London

The idea of natural wine being intrinsically funky, cloudy, or acidic simply doesn’t capture the scope of styles and flavour profiles in its ranks. Here are the spots that do it right

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Hector’s in De Beauvoir — one of London’s best new natural wine bars.
| Charlie McKay

If natural wine seems like it’s arrived on the doorstep of nearly every corner of London, well, that’s because it has. And while some might shrug it off as a passing trend, the fact is that such interest in natural wine represents a consumer shift towards a more sustainable, transparent, and net-neutral, if not net-positive, production of one of the nation’s favourite beverages — that should be celebrated and pursued by any means necessary. And if it all feels like this comes at the expense of bold reds and to the chagrin of those who drink them, then fear not. The idea of natural wine being intrinsically funky, cloudy, or acidic simply doesn’t capture the scope of styles and flavour profiles in its ranks.

That said — putting together a class wine list with proper natural wines (one that favours virtue while eschewing faultiness, offers a scope of styles, pairs excellently with food, and generally tells an interesting story) isn’t easily done. And with natural wine’s tendency to polarise consumers, finding a list that satisfies the needs of the many while maintaining its integrity is rare. Compiled is a list of places across London that tend to get it right: with wines that fall firmly into the “zero-zero” camp (that is, nothing added, nothing taken away) to wines that are still at least organically farmed but take a more cautious approach to vinification.

Ahem, cheers.

NB. Although there is a north and east-leaning bias to this list, the reader must know that the research stages of this map took in places right across the city, including in south and west London. It so happens that the best, right now, are mainly found in the north and east.

It is also the case that this list is mutable and will be updated on at least a quarterly basis.

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The newest instalment from group behind Middle Eastern grill restaurants, Berber & Q and Shawarma Bar. Flavours of the Levant are woven into the fabric of the dishes without being beholden to them; modern European motifs work in tandem with spice, citrus, and heat with ease. Here the wine list proves an equal to the diverse food elements that underpin the space’s foundation. Exceptionally curated, from joyfully salty, leesy, nourishing whites of Alessandro Viola and Marco Merli, to the crystalline minerality of Alexandre Giquel’s Vouvray, to the ample and generous Jurassic wines of Julien Labet, to the odd and wonderful wines of Laureano Serres. In reds, delicacy and power take up equal space, from the lithe, nimble pineau d’aunis of Jean-Pierre Robinot to the structured and elegant Barbarescos of Olek Bondonio. 

Frank’s (at Maison François)

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In the basement beneath the impressive Maison Francois dining room exists the dimly-lit, bronze-clad and borderline too-sexy space that is Frank’s. The concept here is more Parisian bistrot, boasting the classic steak frites, carrotes rapees, and a selection of oysters. It’s entirely possible to visit Frank’s and be tempted by nothing besides martinis (it’s the space for it) but a glance over the wine list surprises with its unexpectedly clever selections. Savoyard wines would be the obvious choice for the food, but it’s the salty, mineral whites of Nino Barraco (Marsala, Sicily) and the perfumed, delicate Jurassic reds of Domaine de Pelican which are both surprising and enticing options from the list.

DUCKSOUP

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For over 10 years, this narrow little Soho institution has been at the cutting edge of London’s natural wine scene — offering imaginative plates alongside some thrilling and eclectic low-intervention red, whites, and in-betweens. And while many are now venturing further east to find rare and spectacular bottles, Ducksoup’s list is not to be overlooked. Featuring a rotating selection of esoteric and wonderful wines by the glass and a brief but comprehensive by-the-bottle list with excellent wines from all over Europe, there’s never any lack of excitement to be found in this little slice of Soho. 

The 10 Cases

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On buzzy Endell street in Covent Garden there’s a petit slice of Paris to be found at the 10 Cases. And while this list isn’t striving to promote the most Parisian places to drink natural wine in London, it goes without saying that there’s something tried and true about the formula. At 10 Cases that formula’s honed with great charm, even going so far as to replicate the street-facing, tightly packed wicker bistro chairs and marble tables wedged between. Prices prove surprisingly reasonable for the postcode, and while the by the glass options seem rather safe, there’s plenty of fun to be had in the full wine list, where wines from the exceptional Masseria del Pino can be drunk at near-retail prices, or, should the weather cooperate, one can enjoy the fabulous view of the Tesco Express with a bottle of summery perfection in the form of Jean Maupertuis’s Pink Bulles. It’s worth grabbing a snack if only to relish the individual Bellivière demi-sel that comes with the (complementary) basket of sliced baguette.

The Crouch End Cellars

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Slotted in amongst a plethora of lovely independent businesses lined up like bunting on the high streets of Crouch End, the Cellars makes for an exceptionally nice stop should the wind blow one through the hilly reaches of north London. Well-stocked shelves with an ambitious reach into nearly every category of wine, liqueur, and spirits makes for an enviable neighbourhood destination, one that boasts just enough of everything. The selection here covers quite a bit of ground, from a full selection of Cantillon lambic (Belgian beers) to the juicy, vibrant Veneto wines of Marco Turco, to the liberated natural wines of the Loire, to the delicate Champagnes of Charles Dufour. Being a shop by day, bar by night, the fare is limited to snacks of cheese and charcuterie, but the selection coupled with the immensely knowledgeable staff brings the experience at Crouch End into its own. 

Noble Rot Lamb's Conduit

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There’s little better than getting a space in the front room (wine bar area) of the original Noble Rot on the characterful Lamb’s Conduit Street to enjoy the scene over an all-too-leisurely afternoon with a few bar snacks and several bottles. One could write a book on the wine list here (in fact, teh self-style “Rotters” did!) which covers producers from all corners of the world and of all manner of production. To find zero-zero wines on the Noble Rot list requires a bit more insight, but there are few ways to misstep in Noble Rot.  From Savoie, drink the exceptional wines of Domaine Belluard, particularly the not-often seen sparkling “Mont Blanc.” From Beaujolais there’s always a back vintage to be found of Yvon Metras. At the entry-level there’s plenty of exceptional wines to drink as well — but save the Chin Chin for Top Cuvee.

Quality Wines

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With limited elbow room and a near-constant hustle, Quality Wines secures its spot on the list as a vibey, no-frills wine bar that ups its stock value with chef Nick Bramham’s reliably excellent, brilliantly creative evolving menu of small, seasonal plates. And while it’s certainly taken a page from the formula set forth by the Parisian wine bars of the early 2010s, there’s something perpetually necessary about such a space — the perfect venue for after-work drinks, catching up with a friend, or weeknight dates. 

The list here changes often and runs on the esoteric side, with a bit of this and a bit of that making its way to the page, while a wholly different selection of wine graces the shelves next to the bar. For the experienced, avoid confusion and shop from the shelves, which host the odd rarity like a Bourgogne Rouge from the elusive Renaud Boyer. And for the natural wine newcomers, pick a style and ask the staff for suggestions. Or, splurge on the one-off by the glass selected by the staff, hosting old gems like 2012 Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis or a 2003 Tardieu-Laurent Cornas.

The Drapers Arms

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There’s something inherently comforting about a high-ceilinged, airy, slightly shambolic pub on a weekend afternoon. And while the space appears to say, “come one, come all,” to get the most from this wine list, a little insight is required. The Draper’s selection focuses on Burgundy and Bordeaux: regions less-known for natural wine production (higher land prices and strict AOC regulations being the two leading factors behind this.) That said, within each section there are  gems, particularly in the “regional France and like minded naturals” category. In the Loire, there’s the beloved wines of Cailloux du Paradis; from Provence, back vintages of the iconic Trévallon Vin de Table. From Sicily, trebbiano from Guccione — perfectly in keeping with the dusty corners and drafty edges of this space. And should there be pockets deep enough to support such behaviour, dive into white Burgundy and Chablis: the beating heart of the list. Meursaults of Antoine Jobard, single-vineyards of Dauvissat-Camus, and the occasional Domaine de Montille all make an appearance, with little to no doubt that more back vintages wait in the wings.

Elliot's - Borough Market

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A sweet and inviting space, equally charming on the rainiest days of winter as it is at the peak of summer, Elliot’s remains one of London’s favourites after more than 10 years in town. Here, generous portions of mortadella, wood oven pizzas, and salty small plates make the perfect accompaniment for a fun, accessible, and an often rather adventurous wine list perfectly suited to the space and food. 

A juicy, chilled red hits the spot here, like the Mas de l’Escarida Sople e Joios gamay. Weather permitting, getting a space on the pavement just outside and drinking a zesty, pink lemonade-y bottle of Cauzon rosado feels like an excellent way to waste away an afternoon, watching the crowds of Borough market ebb and flow. Regardless, the wines here seem to demand to be drunk casually and thirstily. Easily done in this timeless little corner of London. 

Veraison Wines

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Newly opened Veraison Wines brings a little slice of old-school France to a Camberwell High Street. Dark wood-paneling and a bric-a-brac approach to decor create a space somewhat lost in time but perfect for casual drinking of lovely wines. Without question, the wine list here features mainly wines from London-based importer Winemaker’s Club due to a bit of London natural-wine dynasticism: owner Patryjca Lorek’s husband owns the import company and Farringdon wine bar.

Veraison has a typical neighbourhood vibe that slots charmingly into the tapestry of Camberwell. Here, parties of friends old and new descend on low tables and bar seats of the intimate space. On a sunny day, enjoy a bottle of Ismael Gozalo’s Nieva York verdejo pet nat for seriously citrusy refreshment. For a mid-week treat, tuck into one of the elegant Coteaux Champenois roses from Olivier Horiot: complex and ethereal still rose from Champagne. Classic French bar snacks are made better by exceptional bread from new-neighbours Frog bakery. With plenty to choose from and only a £12 corkage fee on all wines (plus no-corkage Wednesdays), Veraison stands as a tempting new space for Camberwell residents and outsiders alike. 

There’s whip-smart food being dreamt up behind closed doors and brought to life in front of guests on the bar floor from charcutier extraordinaire George Jephson and chef Jamie Smart, plates that are at once spectacularly detailed and yet wonderfully unfussy. Wines, from Tom Beattie and Francis Roberts (behind importers Beattie & Roberts), by the glass often feature the gentle and crowd-pleasing whites and roses of Fond Cypres (Corbieres) and the lively, beloved pet nats of Cristophe Lindenlaub (Alsace). Autumn merrily welcomes the slightly heartier reds of Sylvain Bock (Ardeche) to the list, wines that charm with generosity of fruit, vitality, and balance. The bottle list goes deep within the world of the Beattie & Roberts importing portfolio, with wines of immense integrity, history, and imagination at each turn. In each facet of its operation there’s hospitality, charm, and quality, making Cadet a proper gem in the crown of the east London food and wine scene. 

Hector's

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It’s not the first time Hector’s has been hailed as a new stalwart of wines in London and it surely won’t be the last. There’s something about the idea and the space — so sure of itself that it becomes more than the sum of its parts, however simple they may be. Hector’s has captured the hearts of its De Beauvoir audience, and understandably so: being there feels like being in the extension of one’s own, quite chic, home. Here drinkers will always find something interesting to have by the glass, but the experience really comes into its own pulling a bottle off the wall or cellar room (where there are often gems hidden, for those willing to browse more intently.) Chenin blanc from Loire newcomer Fabien Pérreard of Le Nadir feels a supple comfort for a weekday night; for something a touch more flash, a 2017 Brouilly from Jean-Louis Dutraive may do the trick. For the uncertain, proper wine bar rules apply: follow the staff’s lead. And when the wine runs out, there’s always a cheeky bottle of mezcal lurking amongst the staff drinks — a pretty spectacular nightcap.

The Clarence Tavern

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In what seems a perfect fusion of classic British pub and wine-drinker’s paradise, the Clarence Tavern finds itself at the intersection of classic and modern, old-school and youthful. Listing winemaking legends alongside regional newcomers with a narrative charm that’s joyful to read, the pedigree of the buying team comes through in spades. For the richly comforting savoury pies, the zippy Austrian whites of Andreas Tscheppe cut playfully through the weight of cream and stock; for steak, Julien Altaber’s delicate, peppery gamay-pinot blend does wonderfully. There’s room at the Clarence to make unconventional choices within a familiar environment. And with wines of serious quality across the board, there’s ease and pleasure in choosing wine off the list here, for both the adventurous of heart and the pickiest of drinkers.

40 Maltby Street

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A natural wine institution — the wine list reflects the portfolio of their own importing company, Gergovie Wines. And because of the microscopic production of many of their producers, notably those of Auvergne, 40 Maltby stands a sort of natural wine-drinkers mecca, for cuvees so intriguing and often so off the beaten path you’d be hard-pressed to find them anywhere else, let alone with a staff able to discuss them with the ease and enthusiasm of the Maltby team. Woven into the fabric of Maltby is the sense that every single thing should feel salt-of-the-earth, and to fantastic success. The humble a la carte menu surprises with skillfulness and moments of whimsy, and the wine list buzzes with the energy and philosophy of the producers within it. From the aromatic, electric sauvignons of Jerome Saurigny to the brooding, spiced reds of Maziere, to the ironous, nuanced gamay d’Auvergnes of Bouju, everything’s a treasure, hidden in plain sight.

Planque

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If familiarity and comfort trademark the London natural wine scene, Planque disrupts that narrative entirely. With its angular edges, cold surfaces, and museum-like build, the space itself breaks the mould and immediately sets a very different tone from most other east London haunts. It’s a space that, necessarily, mirrors the integrity of what comes out of the kitchen — ambitious food from head chef Sebastien Meyers that’s dreamt up with equal parts nostalgia and ingenuity, skilfully realised. At Planque there are moments of creative brilliance that produce some of the best cooking in London. 

Food of such aptitude requires wine to suit, and the list at Planque provides exceedingly well. From an immense grower Champagne selection to back vintages of some of the finest Savennieres chenin blanc, to the grand Barolos of Rinaldi, there’s no shortage of tremendously exciting wines to drink from this list, so long as one’s pocketbook allows it. Entry-level wines are available but it’s worth splurging on a list like this, often featuring wines from owner Jonathan Alphandery’s personal collection and as such have been immaculately curated and cellared. For many, Planque may live in the space of special-occasion restaurants, but in this case, the cost comes with tremendous reward.

P Franco

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By now hailed as a London institution for natural wine, P. Franco came from humble beginnings, meant to act as an extension of the owner’s home where friends could gather around a communal table and drink exciting wines. Since then, the model’s changed dramatically and wine-buying responsibilities have changed hands numerous times, and yet at its core the feeling tends to stay the same. While today’s iteration of P. Franco may feel a bit younger, buzzier, and the wine offerings somewhat same-ish to many other east London establishments, there’s still something undeniably appealing about setting foot in the narrow space and sinking into the ritual of it all. Start off with a glass of sparkling red (something of a calling card for the greater Noble group) and see where the night goes from there. Highlights from the shelves include the ultra aromatic hybrid-variety field blends from Wijngaard Lijsternest and the lifted, peppery cabernet francs of Francois Saint-Lo. 

A proper little neighbourhood buvette catering to the Leytonstone community, Dina Wines offers up some of the best seasonal and latest-release wines with a laid-back, communicative, and friendly approach — a particularly great spot for drinkers new to the natural wine world. Bar snacks are simple, tasty, and suit the vibe, and a rotating by the glass list keeps things interesting for locals. A well-designed calendar of events, including winemaker events, supper clubs, and importer takeovers make this a deserved destination for anyone looking to sink their teeth into wine and have some fun in the process. 

Carmel

The newest instalment from group behind Middle Eastern grill restaurants, Berber & Q and Shawarma Bar. Flavours of the Levant are woven into the fabric of the dishes without being beholden to them; modern European motifs work in tandem with spice, citrus, and heat with ease. Here the wine list proves an equal to the diverse food elements that underpin the space’s foundation. Exceptionally curated, from joyfully salty, leesy, nourishing whites of Alessandro Viola and Marco Merli, to the crystalline minerality of Alexandre Giquel’s Vouvray, to the ample and generous Jurassic wines of Julien Labet, to the odd and wonderful wines of Laureano Serres. In reds, delicacy and power take up equal space, from the lithe, nimble pineau d’aunis of Jean-Pierre Robinot to the structured and elegant Barbarescos of Olek Bondonio. 

Frank’s (at Maison François)

In the basement beneath the impressive Maison Francois dining room exists the dimly-lit, bronze-clad and borderline too-sexy space that is Frank’s. The concept here is more Parisian bistrot, boasting the classic steak frites, carrotes rapees, and a selection of oysters. It’s entirely possible to visit Frank’s and be tempted by nothing besides martinis (it’s the space for it) but a glance over the wine list surprises with its unexpectedly clever selections. Savoyard wines would be the obvious choice for the food, but it’s the salty, mineral whites of Nino Barraco (Marsala, Sicily) and the perfumed, delicate Jurassic reds of Domaine de Pelican which are both surprising and enticing options from the list.

DUCKSOUP

For over 10 years, this narrow little Soho institution has been at the cutting edge of London’s natural wine scene — offering imaginative plates alongside some thrilling and eclectic low-intervention red, whites, and in-betweens. And while many are now venturing further east to find rare and spectacular bottles, Ducksoup’s list is not to be overlooked. Featuring a rotating selection of esoteric and wonderful wines by the glass and a brief but comprehensive by-the-bottle list with excellent wines from all over Europe, there’s never any lack of excitement to be found in this little slice of Soho. 

The 10 Cases

On buzzy Endell street in Covent Garden there’s a petit slice of Paris to be found at the 10 Cases. And while this list isn’t striving to promote the most Parisian places to drink natural wine in London, it goes without saying that there’s something tried and true about the formula. At 10 Cases that formula’s honed with great charm, even going so far as to replicate the street-facing, tightly packed wicker bistro chairs and marble tables wedged between. Prices prove surprisingly reasonable for the postcode, and while the by the glass options seem rather safe, there’s plenty of fun to be had in the full wine list, where wines from the exceptional Masseria del Pino can be drunk at near-retail prices, or, should the weather cooperate, one can enjoy the fabulous view of the Tesco Express with a bottle of summery perfection in the form of Jean Maupertuis’s Pink Bulles. It’s worth grabbing a snack if only to relish the individual Bellivière demi-sel that comes with the (complementary) basket of sliced baguette.

The Crouch End Cellars

Slotted in amongst a plethora of lovely independent businesses lined up like bunting on the high streets of Crouch End, the Cellars makes for an exceptionally nice stop should the wind blow one through the hilly reaches of north London. Well-stocked shelves with an ambitious reach into nearly every category of wine, liqueur, and spirits makes for an enviable neighbourhood destination, one that boasts just enough of everything. The selection here covers quite a bit of ground, from a full selection of Cantillon lambic (Belgian beers) to the juicy, vibrant Veneto wines of Marco Turco, to the liberated natural wines of the Loire, to the delicate Champagnes of Charles Dufour. Being a shop by day, bar by night, the fare is limited to snacks of cheese and charcuterie, but the selection coupled with the immensely knowledgeable staff brings the experience at Crouch End into its own. 

Noble Rot Lamb's Conduit

There’s little better than getting a space in the front room (wine bar area) of the original Noble Rot on the characterful Lamb’s Conduit Street to enjoy the scene over an all-too-leisurely afternoon with a few bar snacks and several bottles. One could write a book on the wine list here (in fact, teh self-style “Rotters” did!) which covers producers from all corners of the world and of all manner of production. To find zero-zero wines on the Noble Rot list requires a bit more insight, but there are few ways to misstep in Noble Rot.  From Savoie, drink the exceptional wines of Domaine Belluard, particularly the not-often seen sparkling “Mont Blanc.” From Beaujolais there’s always a back vintage to be found of Yvon Metras. At the entry-level there’s plenty of exceptional wines to drink as well — but save the Chin Chin for Top Cuvee.

Quality Wines

With limited elbow room and a near-constant hustle, Quality Wines secures its spot on the list as a vibey, no-frills wine bar that ups its stock value with chef Nick Bramham’s reliably excellent, brilliantly creative evolving menu of small, seasonal plates. And while it’s certainly taken a page from the formula set forth by the Parisian wine bars of the early 2010s, there’s something perpetually necessary about such a space — the perfect venue for after-work drinks, catching up with a friend, or weeknight dates. 

The list here changes often and runs on the esoteric side, with a bit of this and a bit of that making its way to the page, while a wholly different selection of wine graces the shelves next to the bar. For the experienced, avoid confusion and shop from the shelves, which host the odd rarity like a Bourgogne Rouge from the elusive Renaud Boyer. And for the natural wine newcomers, pick a style and ask the staff for suggestions. Or, splurge on the one-off by the glass selected by the staff, hosting old gems like 2012 Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis or a 2003 Tardieu-Laurent Cornas.

The Drapers Arms

There’s something inherently comforting about a high-ceilinged, airy, slightly shambolic pub on a weekend afternoon. And while the space appears to say, “come one, come all,” to get the most from this wine list, a little insight is required. The Draper’s selection focuses on Burgundy and Bordeaux: regions less-known for natural wine production (higher land prices and strict AOC regulations being the two leading factors behind this.) That said, within each section there are  gems, particularly in the “regional France and like minded naturals” category. In the Loire, there’s the beloved wines of Cailloux du Paradis; from Provence, back vintages of the iconic Trévallon Vin de Table. From Sicily, trebbiano from Guccione — perfectly in keeping with the dusty corners and drafty edges of this space. And should there be pockets deep enough to support such behaviour, dive into white Burgundy and Chablis: the beating heart of the list. Meursaults of Antoine Jobard, single-vineyards of Dauvissat-Camus, and the occasional Domaine de Montille all make an appearance, with little to no doubt that more back vintages wait in the wings.

Elliot's - Borough Market

A sweet and inviting space, equally charming on the rainiest days of winter as it is at the peak of summer, Elliot’s remains one of London’s favourites after more than 10 years in town. Here, generous portions of mortadella, wood oven pizzas, and salty small plates make the perfect accompaniment for a fun, accessible, and an often rather adventurous wine list perfectly suited to the space and food. 

A juicy, chilled red hits the spot here, like the Mas de l’Escarida Sople e Joios gamay. Weather permitting, getting a space on the pavement just outside and drinking a zesty, pink lemonade-y bottle of Cauzon rosado feels like an excellent way to waste away an afternoon, watching the crowds of Borough market ebb and flow. Regardless, the wines here seem to demand to be drunk casually and thirstily. Easily done in this timeless little corner of London. 

Veraison Wines

Newly opened Veraison Wines brings a little slice of old-school France to a Camberwell High Street. Dark wood-paneling and a bric-a-brac approach to decor create a space somewhat lost in time but perfect for casual drinking of lovely wines. Without question, the wine list here features mainly wines from London-based importer Winemaker’s Club due to a bit of London natural-wine dynasticism: owner Patryjca Lorek’s husband owns the import company and Farringdon wine bar.

Veraison has a typical neighbourhood vibe that slots charmingly into the tapestry of Camberwell. Here, parties of friends old and new descend on low tables and bar seats of the intimate space. On a sunny day, enjoy a bottle of Ismael Gozalo’s Nieva York verdejo pet nat for seriously citrusy refreshment. For a mid-week treat, tuck into one of the elegant Coteaux Champenois roses from Olivier Horiot: complex and ethereal still rose from Champagne. Classic French bar snacks are made better by exceptional bread from new-neighbours Frog bakery. With plenty to choose from and only a £12 corkage fee on all wines (plus no-corkage Wednesdays), Veraison stands as a tempting new space for Camberwell residents and outsiders alike. 

Cadet

There’s whip-smart food being dreamt up behind closed doors and brought to life in front of guests on the bar floor from charcutier extraordinaire George Jephson and chef Jamie Smart, plates that are at once spectacularly detailed and yet wonderfully unfussy. Wines, from Tom Beattie and Francis Roberts (behind importers Beattie & Roberts), by the glass often feature the gentle and crowd-pleasing whites and roses of Fond Cypres (Corbieres) and the lively, beloved pet nats of Cristophe Lindenlaub (Alsace). Autumn merrily welcomes the slightly heartier reds of Sylvain Bock (Ardeche) to the list, wines that charm with generosity of fruit, vitality, and balance. The bottle list goes deep within the world of the Beattie & Roberts importing portfolio, with wines of immense integrity, history, and imagination at each turn. In each facet of its operation there’s hospitality, charm, and quality, making Cadet a proper gem in the crown of the east London food and wine scene. 

Hector's

It’s not the first time Hector’s has been hailed as a new stalwart of wines in London and it surely won’t be the last. There’s something about the idea and the space — so sure of itself that it becomes more than the sum of its parts, however simple they may be. Hector’s has captured the hearts of its De Beauvoir audience, and understandably so: being there feels like being in the extension of one’s own, quite chic, home. Here drinkers will always find something interesting to have by the glass, but the experience really comes into its own pulling a bottle off the wall or cellar room (where there are often gems hidden, for those willing to browse more intently.) Chenin blanc from Loire newcomer Fabien Pérreard of Le Nadir feels a supple comfort for a weekday night; for something a touch more flash, a 2017 Brouilly from Jean-Louis Dutraive may do the trick. For the uncertain, proper wine bar rules apply: follow the staff’s lead. And when the wine runs out, there’s always a cheeky bottle of mezcal lurking amongst the staff drinks — a pretty spectacular nightcap.

The Clarence Tavern

In what seems a perfect fusion of classic British pub and wine-drinker’s paradise, the Clarence Tavern finds itself at the intersection of classic and modern, old-school and youthful. Listing winemaking legends alongside regional newcomers with a narrative charm that’s joyful to read, the pedigree of the buying team comes through in spades. For the richly comforting savoury pies, the zippy Austrian whites of Andreas Tscheppe cut playfully through the weight of cream and stock; for steak, Julien Altaber’s delicate, peppery gamay-pinot blend does wonderfully. There’s room at the Clarence to make unconventional choices within a familiar environment. And with wines of serious quality across the board, there’s ease and pleasure in choosing wine off the list here, for both the adventurous of heart and the pickiest of drinkers.

40 Maltby Street

A natural wine institution — the wine list reflects the portfolio of their own importing company, Gergovie Wines. And because of the microscopic production of many of their producers, notably those of Auvergne, 40 Maltby stands a sort of natural wine-drinkers mecca, for cuvees so intriguing and often so off the beaten path you’d be hard-pressed to find them anywhere else, let alone with a staff able to discuss them with the ease and enthusiasm of the Maltby team. Woven into the fabric of Maltby is the sense that every single thing should feel salt-of-the-earth, and to fantastic success. The humble a la carte menu surprises with skillfulness and moments of whimsy, and the wine list buzzes with the energy and philosophy of the producers within it. From the aromatic, electric sauvignons of Jerome Saurigny to the brooding, spiced reds of Maziere, to the ironous, nuanced gamay d’Auvergnes of Bouju, everything’s a treasure, hidden in plain sight.

Planque

If familiarity and comfort trademark the London natural wine scene, Planque disrupts that narrative entirely. With its angular edges, cold surfaces, and museum-like build, the space itself breaks the mould and immediately sets a very different tone from most other east London haunts. It’s a space that, necessarily, mirrors the integrity of what comes out of the kitchen — ambitious food from head chef Sebastien Meyers that’s dreamt up with equal parts nostalgia and ingenuity, skilfully realised. At Planque there are moments of creative brilliance that produce some of the best cooking in London. 

Food of such aptitude requires wine to suit, and the list at Planque provides exceedingly well. From an immense grower Champagne selection to back vintages of some of the finest Savennieres chenin blanc, to the grand Barolos of Rinaldi, there’s no shortage of tremendously exciting wines to drink from this list, so long as one’s pocketbook allows it. Entry-level wines are available but it’s worth splurging on a list like this, often featuring wines from owner Jonathan Alphandery’s personal collection and as such have been immaculately curated and cellared. For many, Planque may live in the space of special-occasion restaurants, but in this case, the cost comes with tremendous reward.

P Franco

By now hailed as a London institution for natural wine, P. Franco came from humble beginnings, meant to act as an extension of the owner’s home where friends could gather around a communal table and drink exciting wines. Since then, the model’s changed dramatically and wine-buying responsibilities have changed hands numerous times, and yet at its core the feeling tends to stay the same. While today’s iteration of P. Franco may feel a bit younger, buzzier, and the wine offerings somewhat same-ish to many other east London establishments, there’s still something undeniably appealing about setting foot in the narrow space and sinking into the ritual of it all. Start off with a glass of sparkling red (something of a calling card for the greater Noble group) and see where the night goes from there. Highlights from the shelves include the ultra aromatic hybrid-variety field blends from Wijngaard Lijsternest and the lifted, peppery cabernet francs of Francois Saint-Lo. 

Dina

A proper little neighbourhood buvette catering to the Leytonstone community, Dina Wines offers up some of the best seasonal and latest-release wines with a laid-back, communicative, and friendly approach — a particularly great spot for drinkers new to the natural wine world. Bar snacks are simple, tasty, and suit the vibe, and a rotating by the glass list keeps things interesting for locals. A well-designed calendar of events, including winemaker events, supper clubs, and importer takeovers make this a deserved destination for anyone looking to sink their teeth into wine and have some fun in the process.