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Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include Eel and Pie House in Leytonstone Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

Where to Eat Pie and Mash in London

Meat pies, mash, and parsley liquor are a staple of London’s history

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London’s original fast food: pie and mash shops have been around since the mid 1800s. While synonymous with working class Londoners – primarily from the East End or south of the river – the capital’s traditional pie shops are slowly dying out, with some of the UK’s most popular now operating from Essex or Kent. Over the past four years, London has lost institutions such as A Cooke – prominently featured in Quadrophenia; M Manze in Islington; and Nathan’s, once popular with West Ham fans on match day, just around the corner from Upton Park. Meanwhile, a select number of traditional pie and mash shops continue to operate in London, often near street markets, with inexpensive, sustaining food available to eat in or take away. Some have adapted their menus to suit changing tastes and attitudes, others have adhered to their original offerings (for most, gravy remains a dirty word), while most only open for lunch and remain closed on Sundays.

While the holy trinity of minced beef pies with flaky lids, mashed potato and liquor — a vivid green parsley sauce, which demands to be paired with chilli-infused vinegar — isn’t for everyone, the dish continues to unite many working class Londoners as well as sparking heated debates on which shop serves the best version. Most will agree on a set of universal rules, however: liquor is essential, mash should be scraped rather than scooped, a fork and spoon will suffice; and one pie is never enough.

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F. Cooke

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After trading from the same site for over 100 years, F. Cooke on Broadway Market recently announced plans to close within the next couple of months As well as being one of London’s oldest pie shops, it’s also one of the most charming. Sawdust coats the floors while the tiles, lean marble tabletops and bench seats epitomise the pie shops of the past. Pies are larger than usual, with well-browned flaky pastry lids, filled with a good amount of gravy. Mash and vivid green liquor portions are also substantial.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include F Cooke Broadway Market Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

F Cooke

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Opened in 1987, the Hoxton shop is the newest in the family’s East End empire, joining Broadway Market and Dalston, the latter already closed. While the space is relatively new, the recipe adheres to age-old tradition, with everything prepared on-site. Beef is butchered and minced in house, both sets of pastry dough are also prepared by the family: a thick suet base is utilised to hold the meat and gravy, topped with a short crust lid. Vegetarian pies are also available and cooked to order — made with vegetable suet pastry — yet gravy remains frowned upon. The liquor here is also thicker than typical, soupy in consistency and gloriously herbed.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include F Cooke Hoxton Street Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

M.Manze

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Another pie shop forming part of Michaele Manze’s south London empire, the Peckham space isn’t as visually striking as its Bermondsey cousin, but the pies follow the same age-old, top secret recipe. Moreover, the mash is uncommonly smooth and the vivid liquor has a far more agreeable texture. Arguably south east London’s best pie and mash shop.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include M. Manze in Peckham Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

M.Manze

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Launched by Italian immigrant Michaele Manze, a Ravello native whose parents settled in Bermondsey, M. Manze on Tower Bridge Road is the oldest surviving pie shop in south London. It opened in 1902. The shop’s interior is, arguably, one of the most genuflected, having become an archetype of traditional pie shops with its narrow marble tabletops, booth seating and serving counter at the front of the building. This particular shop’s liquor can be overly thick, but the pies are consistently exemplary.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include M. Manze in Bermondsey Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

Maureen's Pie & Mash

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Touted as a ‘cockney food bar,’ Maureen’s has been a staple of Chrisp Street Market for over 50 years. Originally operating from a site at the Commercial Road end of the market, the newer shop is clean and spacious but has less traditional interiors. The pie and mash served here is some of the best in London, nonetheless. At under £4, pies are well-browned and packed with beef soaked in thick gravy, mash is exceptionally smooth and the liquor has a dark green complexion, possibly embellished with a whisper of mint.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include Maureen’s at Chrisp Street Market Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

Opened by Luigi Manze, Michaele’s brother, in 1929, L. Manze on Walthamstow High Street is one of London’s most attractive pie shops in terms of interior. Run by the Manze family until 1970, the grade-II listed building has a terrazzo floor, marble table tops and booth seating. As for the food, pies are available in two sizes and although they’re some of the city’s more expensive, they’re also some of the best on offer.

Cockney's Pie & Mash

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West London’s finest, Cockney’s is a relative newcomer yet the space is charming and the food is very authentic. The pies, for instance, have a suet base and buttery, contrasting crust, generously filled with beef and rich gravy. They’re also served in heavy china bowls which allow extra space for greater pools of liquor.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include Cockney’s Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

B.J's Pie & Mash

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As well as being the smallest shop on the list, B.J’s on Barking Road bucks the trend by controversially serving chips as an alternative to traditional mash. Past the communal bench seating, food is served by friendly staff from a counter at the back of the shop (also unusual): pies are crowned with desirably well-done crusts, mash is creamy and the liquor is generously seasoned.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include BJ’s in Plaistow Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

Arments Pie & Mash

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Around the corner from East Street Market, Arments is one of south London’s few remaining pie shops. While the family have been serving pie and mash since 1914, the Westmoreland Road shop has been operating since the mid 20th Century. One of the most reasonably priced establishments (£3.65 for pie, mash and liquor), Arments’ pies feature superlative pastry, but the meat filling can be somewhat pallid, occasionally lacklustre. Nonetheless, the shop remains an important pillar of London’s pie and mash culture.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include Arment’s in Walworth Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

Eel & Pie House

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Just off Leytonstone High Road, Noted Eel & Pie house has changed very little since the 1970s. Even the prices are in the past. Pies are smaller than typical, occasionally capped with slightly anaemic pastry, but the filling is encouraging and the liquor has good depth of both flavour and texture. As for the space, gleaming white tiles are joined by rickety red benches and photographs documenting London’s remaining pie shops — a permanent exhibition from photographer Jake Green.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include Eel and Pie House in Leytonstone Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

Tony's Pie & Mash shop

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The London Borough of Waltham Abbey is technically on the fringe of Essex, yet Tony’s Pie and Mash is a notable exception. Launched in 1995, the shop is comparatively modern yet still adheres to a green and white colour scheme and the pie and mash is some of the best north of Hackney. David Beckham, Tony’s most famous regular, also agrees. Thick pastry conceals well-seasoned minced beef soaked with gravy, mash is scraped onto the plate and the liquor has ideal consistency. Vegetarian pies are also available, but allow 15 minutes for cooking.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include Tony’s Pie and Mash in Walthamstow
Tony’s pie and mash with liquor at Tony’s Pie & Mash shop

G Kelly

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First opened in 1939, G. Kelly on Roman Road has quietly re-opened following a two-year refurbishment project. Harking back to the shop’s original fittings, the space boasts walls dressed with gleaming white tiles and framed black and white photo’s; marble table tops and warm globe lighting. In regards to food, just pie, mash and eels are served at the moment, with plans for fruit crumbles to be available in the near future. Pies are filled with beef from Walter Rose & Son and rich gravy; mash is scraped onto the plates’ edges; the liquor is exemplary. The shop is also open for lunch on Sundays: another rarity, much like the vegan pie that it condescends to offer when so many will not.

Pie and mash at G.Kelly, one of London’s best pie and mash shops Michaël Protin/Eater London

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F. Cooke

After trading from the same site for over 100 years, F. Cooke on Broadway Market recently announced plans to close within the next couple of months As well as being one of London’s oldest pie shops, it’s also one of the most charming. Sawdust coats the floors while the tiles, lean marble tabletops and bench seats epitomise the pie shops of the past. Pies are larger than usual, with well-browned flaky pastry lids, filled with a good amount of gravy. Mash and vivid green liquor portions are also substantial.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include F Cooke Broadway Market Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

F Cooke

Opened in 1987, the Hoxton shop is the newest in the family’s East End empire, joining Broadway Market and Dalston, the latter already closed. While the space is relatively new, the recipe adheres to age-old tradition, with everything prepared on-site. Beef is butchered and minced in house, both sets of pastry dough are also prepared by the family: a thick suet base is utilised to hold the meat and gravy, topped with a short crust lid. Vegetarian pies are also available and cooked to order — made with vegetable suet pastry — yet gravy remains frowned upon. The liquor here is also thicker than typical, soupy in consistency and gloriously herbed.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include F Cooke Hoxton Street Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

M.Manze

Another pie shop forming part of Michaele Manze’s south London empire, the Peckham space isn’t as visually striking as its Bermondsey cousin, but the pies follow the same age-old, top secret recipe. Moreover, the mash is uncommonly smooth and the vivid liquor has a far more agreeable texture. Arguably south east London’s best pie and mash shop.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include M. Manze in Peckham Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

M.Manze

Launched by Italian immigrant Michaele Manze, a Ravello native whose parents settled in Bermondsey, M. Manze on Tower Bridge Road is the oldest surviving pie shop in south London. It opened in 1902. The shop’s interior is, arguably, one of the most genuflected, having become an archetype of traditional pie shops with its narrow marble tabletops, booth seating and serving counter at the front of the building. This particular shop’s liquor can be overly thick, but the pies are consistently exemplary.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include M. Manze in Bermondsey Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

Maureen's Pie & Mash

Touted as a ‘cockney food bar,’ Maureen’s has been a staple of Chrisp Street Market for over 50 years. Originally operating from a site at the Commercial Road end of the market, the newer shop is clean and spacious but has less traditional interiors. The pie and mash served here is some of the best in London, nonetheless. At under £4, pies are well-browned and packed with beef soaked in thick gravy, mash is exceptionally smooth and the liquor has a dark green complexion, possibly embellished with a whisper of mint.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include Maureen’s at Chrisp Street Market Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

Manzes

Opened by Luigi Manze, Michaele’s brother, in 1929, L. Manze on Walthamstow High Street is one of London’s most attractive pie shops in terms of interior. Run by the Manze family until 1970, the grade-II listed building has a terrazzo floor, marble table tops and booth seating. As for the food, pies are available in two sizes and although they’re some of the city’s more expensive, they’re also some of the best on offer.

Cockney's Pie & Mash

West London’s finest, Cockney’s is a relative newcomer yet the space is charming and the food is very authentic. The pies, for instance, have a suet base and buttery, contrasting crust, generously filled with beef and rich gravy. They’re also served in heavy china bowls which allow extra space for greater pools of liquor.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include Cockney’s Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

B.J's Pie & Mash

As well as being the smallest shop on the list, B.J’s on Barking Road bucks the trend by controversially serving chips as an alternative to traditional mash. Past the communal bench seating, food is served by friendly staff from a counter at the back of the shop (also unusual): pies are crowned with desirably well-done crusts, mash is creamy and the liquor is generously seasoned.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include BJ’s in Plaistow Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

Arments Pie & Mash

Around the corner from East Street Market, Arments is one of south London’s few remaining pie shops. While the family have been serving pie and mash since 1914, the Westmoreland Road shop has been operating since the mid 20th Century. One of the most reasonably priced establishments (£3.65 for pie, mash and liquor), Arments’ pies feature superlative pastry, but the meat filling can be somewhat pallid, occasionally lacklustre. Nonetheless, the shop remains an important pillar of London’s pie and mash culture.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include Arment’s in Walworth Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

Eel & Pie House

Just off Leytonstone High Road, Noted Eel & Pie house has changed very little since the 1970s. Even the prices are in the past. Pies are smaller than typical, occasionally capped with slightly anaemic pastry, but the filling is encouraging and the liquor has good depth of both flavour and texture. As for the space, gleaming white tiles are joined by rickety red benches and photographs documenting London’s remaining pie shops — a permanent exhibition from photographer Jake Green.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include Eel and Pie House in Leytonstone Jonathan Hatchman/Eater London

Tony's Pie & Mash shop

The London Borough of Waltham Abbey is technically on the fringe of Essex, yet Tony’s Pie and Mash is a notable exception. Launched in 1995, the shop is comparatively modern yet still adheres to a green and white colour scheme and the pie and mash is some of the best north of Hackney. David Beckham, Tony’s most famous regular, also agrees. Thick pastry conceals well-seasoned minced beef soaked with gravy, mash is scraped onto the plate and the liquor has ideal consistency. Vegetarian pies are also available, but allow 15 minutes for cooking.

Pie and mash in London: London’s best pie and mash shops include Tony’s Pie and Mash in Walthamstow
Tony’s pie and mash with liquor at Tony’s Pie & Mash shop

G Kelly

First opened in 1939, G. Kelly on Roman Road has quietly re-opened following a two-year refurbishment project. Harking back to the shop’s original fittings, the space boasts walls dressed with gleaming white tiles and framed black and white photo’s; marble table tops and warm globe lighting. In regards to food, just pie, mash and eels are served at the moment, with plans for fruit crumbles to be available in the near future. Pies are filled with beef from Walter Rose & Son and rich gravy; mash is scraped onto the plates’ edges; the liquor is exemplary. The shop is also open for lunch on Sundays: another rarity, much like the vegan pie that it condescends to offer when so many will not.

Pie and mash at G.Kelly, one of London’s best pie and mash shops Michaël Protin/Eater London